I bought a compressor air nozzle set from Harbor Freight, which included one
nozzle with a 4" metal tube on it. I unscrewed the nozzle, got a large jar
cover and drilled a hole in it. Put the lid on the nozzle screw, attach the
tube. The cap acts as a shield to keep splash back.
Hey Tom, the cap shield is not at all necessary! There is no splashback - all
"splash" comes out the mouth of nthe grip -just drape a rag over the grip mouth
and shaft. I experimented with the airgun nozzle you described and found it's
best to cut the long tube down to about 2".
Just suggestions to improve your experience.
Arnie
Oh, almost forgot. If you don't have a compressor a 120V tire inflator works
just as well. True but if used often these "toy"compressors will fail! The
piston is tiny!
TFlan
On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 12:32 PM, Grampa <gra...@sielski.com> wrote:
Thanks Arnie.
John sent me the clubmaker shop tip URL, but neither the ferrule protector or
shaft extractor is on that site. [probably why I couldn't remember them :-) ]
Bob
On 2/11/2014 1:23 PM, arniescl...@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 2/11/2014 9:33:17 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
gra...@sielski.com writes:
the ferrule protector or the broken shaft removal tool
but I would like to make those to add to my collection of "Arnie's
tools"
The ferrule protector was mainly used for Ping or other woods that have
ferrules that are difficult to obtain or special inserts. The tool is simple a
2" length of thick wall PVC (thicken wall by cementing one tube inside another)
with a 15° - 20° angle cut on one end on the interior "high" side of the angle
file a half round bevel (this assures that the tool centers on the crown of
the clubhead.
Slip the tool (angle towards the head) on the shaft (requires grip removed)
place in your extractor and exert push to the square end of the tool. Off comes
the head with no damage to the ferrule.Yes the PVC angled end will become heat
damaged in time but it's easy to make another tool.
Another ferrule saving tool is a cheap (important 5" vise grip with the teeth
inside the jaws ground off.
WARM the ferrule place - the tool on the outside of the center of the ferrule
(not too tight) twist the ferrule and slide it up the shaft. Now remove the
head in the normal manner. After head is removed scrape off epoxy on the tip
and slide the ferrule off. Don't worry if the ferrule is slightly deformed -
this will be cured when the finished club gets a ferrule turn down/polishing.
Yes, I know it sounds stupid the save a ferrule but some have a serial number
or are of a special ring or length design.Thus you can replace a shaft and
nobody will know that there was work done on the club!
The broken shaft extractor is a "screw extractor" bought at a Lowes, Home
Depot, good hardware store. Get the _set that has the very coarse thread._ The
set usually has 4 or 5 pieces the #3 and #4 are the ones needed
(I'm not positive of these # sizes) one for woods one for irons. To use you
screw the extractor into the broken shaft stub (turns counter clockwise) heat
the hosel and twist and pull the stub. You can hold the tool in a vise grip or
a tap handle which is better. The extractor set will cost from $5 - $6. This
tool never wears out!
There are others some posted in shoptalk (at the bottom of the home page). This
is a good source!
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