Alex, I tried using North (negative pole) of the magnet when brewing CS by placing it at the bottom of the glass. It reduced the brewing time about 40%.I tried some right after brewing. It gave me a weird feeling of being charged. It lasted a couple of hours. I never tried it again. Be careful.
> -----Original Message----- > From: ALEX C TORRES [SMTP:[email protected]] > Sent: Thursday, September 02, 1999 3:58 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: CS>BIG CS Generator > > Dear Jim, > I had use a strong magnet to move the water... did you know that magnets > moves water? Try this: Put a recipient with water at the freezer (better > two) One with a strong magnet (speaker magnet) at the bottom and one > without. When it is frozen, the one with the magnet shows some circles, > that > mean the water was moving. With this in mind I use some magnets when i > make > CS. Please try it and report please. > Alex Torres M.D. > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] <[email protected]> > Date: Thursday, September 02, 1999 11:07 AM > Subject: CS>BIG CS Generator > > > >If you want to make lots of cs at one time, want control over the > >process, don't want to baby-sit the generator, maybe this is for you. > > > >There is more than one way to skin a cat, and the example of the setup > >below can certainly be changed to make a system you might like better. > > > >I like to give cs away, and making cs with my 10,000 volt setup was > >too time consuming when many people wanted cs in the same week! So I > >wanted to make a setup that would do a good job in more of a hurry. > > > >The example below runs off household current of 120 vac. For those of > >you who would like to run off battery, you can bypass the ac circuitry > >in the supply and use a couple car batteries instead. For those in > >the 220volt 50hz parts of the world, a simple transformer in front of > >the power supply would suffice. Etc., etc.. > > > >This is not a refined system which has been custom engineered for cs, > >it is a slap-together setup from normally found stuff, so anyone can > >do it anywhere. And it works very, very well!!!!! > >_____________ > > > >POWER SUPPLY: voltage and current limiting, 0-35 volts dc, 0-1 or 2 > >amps continuous (not stated in documentation), 5 amp max. Made in > >Taiwan without a label so anyone can private label it. Taiwan part > >number: Model: VAP-5A30V2. This model is sold by CALRAD number > >45-774. It has a volt meter, ammeter, and pots to adjust limits to > >each. List about $230US, can get for $50 less with shopping. Yes, it > >is a bit big, but workable. Voltage meter and adj. is just fine, the > >amp adj. and meter need some help unless you use enough silver to use > >about a whole amp of power. I'm sure there are cheaper ways out > >there, I just used this one as I was readily available with current > >limiting built in. [An alternative supply with current limiting on > >board would be a small dc motor drive at a used electric place. Even > >some of the newer ones are pretty cheap. A person would only have to > >use enough electrode surface area to work within the range of the > >drive.] > > > >ELECTRODES: This was simply a starting point, your setup may vary. I > >used 12 pieces of 1mm thick silver sheet 2 in. x 6 in. submerged 5" in > >the water. Use sheet at least this thick, because you cannot afford > >to have a thinner sheet bending on you when you clean them. > >Electrodes must be pretty straight and flat. I arranged the > >electrodes like an expanded stack with 1.5" spacing with alternating > >charges just like a battery. Spacing is not very critical as I have > >the ability to current limit, however, the larger the spacing, the > >less small deviations in alignment and flatness of electrodes will > >matter. Also, the larger the spacing, the longer it takes to start > >up, as the voltage is limited to 35vdc with this particular power > >supply. Each electrode must be spaced the same from each other > >electrode. File and polish all sharp edges, or you will get a lot of > >fallout in the cs. > > > >You can use different configurations, larger pieces (which I will next > >time I order), more or fewer electrodes, different spacing, different > >current limit point. Even just two big electrodes. > > > >ELECTRODE BURN OFF: I have found that turning the setup on to "burn > >in" the electrodes is of great help in reducing the high spots on the > >electrodes. Just set it up, crank up the amps, and let it run all > >day. The cs will have a tremendous amount of fallout, but after that > >the electrodes will make a cs will little fallout. > > > >ELECTRODE SOURCE: I bought mine form Swest. You can find them at > >swestinc.com . If you order from them, make sure you tell them you > >want accurate cuts. My order came back with pieces that were not cut > >very close. I complained, and the manager called me up to apologize > >and promise better service next time. They will make any size you > >want. > > > >BATCH TANK: I used a 10 gallon aquarium, filled half full. > > > >STIRRING: Stir, or you WILL have unhappy results. Highly conductive > >cs will pile up between some electrodes, and the current will not be > >the same everywhere. You will make very large particle cs without > >stirring. I use a regular fish tank filter pump without the filter. > >I found some had an unprotected metal rotor, and some had plastic or > >teflon covered pump rotor. Obviously I did not want the exposed > >metal. > > > >POLARITY REVERSAL: I went down to the local used industrial > >electronics store and bought an old percentage timer for $5US. It has > >only a single pole relay, so I use it to drive a double pole relay to > >switch polarity every 30 seconds. If you don't switch polarity, the > >setup will still work, but the electrodes are a real mess, fallout is > >massive, etc.. Once fallout settles overnight, the cs is clear and > >stable, however. > > > >PUTTING IT TOGETHER: 5 gal of ds in the fish tank, hang electrodes > >according to above, use alligator clips to connect each electrode to > >the appropriate polarity, turn on circulation pump, PRESTO, you have a > >monster cs maker. I actually do not hang my electrodes, as I did not > >want them flopping around with the moving water. I used a plastic > >rack to put on the bottom of my tank and put the electrodes in the > >slots to hold firm. Worried about the rack collecting fallout and > >affecting current flow, but with a little care it can be done with > >good results. Or just hang 'em. > > > >I limit my current to 200 milliamps. I turn off at about 24 volts. I > >put my multimeter in line to measure the amps as the meter on the > >power supply is not good enough for fine tuning this sort of process. > >The process levels out at about 40+ microsiemens, and after a bit of > >fallout overnight, is very clear and measures about 38 mS. Stays very > >clear in hard plastic (soda pop bottle), will get darker in soft > >plastic (ds water bottle). > > > >Inside the power supply, there is a pot that adjusts the range of main > >amp adjusting pot. I crank this all the way ccw, and it gives me a > >bit less touchy amp adjust capability. Need to install a 20 turn pot. > > > >AUTO SHUTOFF: Simpson makes a digital volt meter with auto shutoff, > >not cheap though. I have a Simpson digital amp meter with dual > >contacts and programmable. I can hook up to my ac input to the power > >supply, and make the setup shut down when I read a low enough amp > >draw, which will correlate to the lower watt output of the dc side > >when the cs is finished. Someone on the list probably has a cheap > >and easy way of accomplishing an auto shut off. You could always just > >use a timer to shut down, and when you get back (or wake up) just turn > >the generator on the see how close you are to your intended voltage > >output, run till done. > > > >PREHEATING: I have not, but with the current limiting maybe you could > >for a faster startup, as it takes a couple hours to get up to .2 amps > >without heating. Others may have more to say on that. > > > >So, I get 5 gallons in about 5 hours, very clear, 40mS, very stable > >over a few weeks in a soda bottle. Tyndall is weak after initial > >fallout. I have found that the process can be run longer or at a > >higher current limit, but after the fallout the tyndall is still weak, > >and the mS reading is still about the same. There appears to be a > >wall as to how much silver can be put into the water with low volt dc, > >as others have mentioned on the list. Anything more simple falls out. > > > >The same amount of cs would take me 40 hours of run time in my CS Pro > >Ultra generator, and I don't have the control over the high volt > >process I have with this one. I'm happy with the results. You can > >increase the surface area and run at 1.5 amps, or something like that, > >and make cs in a real hurry. There may be commercial value here, or > >there just may be a greater benefit to your neighborhood. > > > >Jim > > > > > >-- > >The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver. > > > >To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to: > >[email protected] -or- [email protected] > >with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the SUBJECT line. > > > >To post, address your message to: [email protected] > > > >List maintainer: Mike Devour <[email protected]> > >
