TDS or PPM [calculated for sodium salt water] is approximately twice
the conductivity which is the only thing that any meter actually measures.
Using instruments that can ACTUALLY measure PPM of silver in water, the
conductivity to PPM equivalency is approx 1 to 1 with some variation due to
the most part to silver in the water in forms that aren't conductive in
varying degrees...much of that contamination reaction related
AFTER that measurement stops dropping [Ions "stabilize" over time]...and
it can drop by as much as 40 to 50%...then... 1 uS = ~ 1 PPM silver
What that probably means is that the meter isn't detecting conductivity
from the silver ions, but from the OH [-] anions [ aka "Alkaline water" ]
that are produced in a 1 to 1 ratio along-with the silver ions..and the
silver ions "go into hiding" as they Hydrate with water molecules in order
to also hide from the anions that eventually would turn all of them into
Silver Hydroxide [which doesn't seem to happen even after several years of
storage] rather than just some of them.
Therefore, with nearly half of what conducts in hiding, both ions and
anions being contributors, the conductivity drops almost 50% and at THAT
point in time 1 uS >/< equals the number spit out by an AA
Spectrophotometer that can actually measure actual PPM directly.
Using a PPM/TDS meter approx silver content would be that reading doubled.
.02 PPM [ 2 actually..the decimal is but a numeral place holder and not an
actual tenth] would be 4 uS or 4 PPM Silver as a "Ball Park Estimate"
.14 [ 14] would be ~ 28 PPM silver.
Solubility limits of water give measurement limits to around 30 uS
conductivity and anything run to over that is just about meaningless on a
meter.
That which isn't in solution, doesn't conduct..but it's still there.
The Utopia "Silver Bullet" [Probably should be called a silver rocket ]
Part List
1. 120 Volt AC to 48 Volt DC Generator [voltage is nearly irrelevant
except where it relates to current and conductivity, current determines a
LOT and to keep that constant as conductivity goes up with added ions, the
voltage should be made to go lower]
2. 120 Volt AC Timer [cannot be used to predict a darned thing]
[You will need a meter to have any clue at all.]
Instructions:
* Use a green pin to set the second start time at ½ hour later to allow
a cool down period. This will extend the life of your generator. (During
this cool down time, wipe the silver oxide from the electrodes and switch
the red and the black electrode clips. This will ensure that the two
electrodes both wear down somewhat uniformly.)
* [ If it needs a "cool down time" there is a serious lack of design in
the engineering. Well engineered devices don't heat up...ever. ]
Note: Ionic content will register on the TDS1 meter, but particle content
will not. Particle content will be evidenced by its color since particles
reflect light and ions do not.
["Color" part not true, but particles do reflect light and ions
don't. Although particle size can have an effect on color and
numbers/density on depth of color, it's more an indication of the chemical
composition of the majority of particles. If the color is yellow to brown
to black, it mostly means that you have silver oxides in the water and the
best way I've found to do that is to use too much current over too small
electrodes..you can actually see the oxides being formed in the water
rather than nearly all of it being stuck on the electrode that gets black
as a "golden mist"]
Ode
At 11:11 AM 3/9/2010 -0800, you wrote:
Hi, Tel
I am kind of new for making homemade CS. brought silver bullet from
utopia, It included TDS meter. I have tested my homemade distill water
at 0.02 and CS at 0.12. I pulled CS to amber jar. over time the ppm
increased a little to 0.14. For curiosity, I tested tap water(live in
S.F.), it was 0. 96. Brita was 0.51. Could you tell me what does it
mean? Contaminations in the water? Quite a few of my friends just drink
directly from tap water. So 0.96 is not bad to drink or cook with, right?
Overtime, my TDS does not measure accurately. I think it needs to
replace batteries. My question is what different hanna tester from TDS
meter. Does it also need to change battries often? I need to buy one if
hanna is the one we need to measure CS. Thanks. Helen
--- On Tue, 3/9/10, Tel Tofflemire <telt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Tel Tofflemire <telt...@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: CS>Silver Meter
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Date: Tuesday, March 9, 2010, 5:52 AM
It happens to all of us over the years, I have switched from one to
another always trying to get the purest steam distilled water. I did use
walgreens drug store, for a long time and they changed there supplier ,
Bam ! There So called Distilled water was really bad, like over 10 ppm
dissolved solids, or contamination. I took it all back with my
hanna testers and demanded my money back, and opened an unopened jug in
front of them and tested it with my smallest tester , wow it was real
bad, they gave me all my money back from 2 sales receipts, I buy about 8
or 10 gallons at a time, I try to limit trips. {Thus a good meter can pay
for itself } I am sure all stores are different but here in Prescott, AZ
Walmart has steam distilled water that measures only 0.00 to 0.04 now
that is pure. I feel bad for people who use DW for car & golf cart , &
boat batteries, that 10 ppm would shorten the life of the batterie, or
plug up an iron fast.
Tel Tofflemire
Dewey, AZ.
From: Del <d...@altsystem.com>
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Tue, March 9, 2010 6:30:01 AM
Subject: Re: CS>Silver Meter
One experience of mine shows why you need a meter.
I have always used a meter to measure the strength of my CS right after
making it.
It normally reads between 9 and 12, which is an approximation of the PPM
of the solution.
Although the actual ppm may be a bit different, I assume it is not hugely
different. The important thing is the consistency of the meter from one
batch to the next. I know that each of my batches is similar to all the
others that I have made.
One day I made a quart mason jar of CS from a new gallon of distilled
water, and did my routine measurement after it was made.
I was not expecting anything different as the CS was clear and did not
show any cloudiness or anything.
I woke up in a hurry when the meter jumped to 200 plus.
Whoa, what is this? I measure it again. Still in excess of 200.
I then poured water from the new gallon jug and measured that. Also in
excess of 200.
The water was bad.
Why did my SG6 not refuse to make CS from this as it is supposed to?
I don't know. It looked like it went through its normal process,
although I was not really paying attention at the time.
Anyway, the meter showed that this jug of the distilled water I always
buy (Poland Springs) was bad.
That had never happened before and has not happened again since.
And that is why you need a meter and should always measure each batch
that you make.
Del
----- Original Message -----
From:
<http://us.mc823.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=one.red...@hotmail.com>Neville
Munn
To:
<http://us.mc823.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=silver-l...@eskimo.com>silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 7:38 PM
Subject: RE: CS>Silver Meter
[Any comments on this is appreciated]
-Sure, here's my thoughts on the subject...
[...basiclly has the same component inside as the Hanna PWT.]
-That'd be their way of saying "there isn't a meter 'off the shelf' that
is specifically designed to measure EIS" {without actually saying it!}
cos to my knowledge...there isn't. Meters used for EIS purposes
are...'guesswork using a measuring instrument'.
I got three meters and none of them are 'accurate?', but they get me in
the ballpark, which is only where I need to be. I know from laboratory
analysis that I got more *total* silver content than all my meters show,
but the meters fool me into determining *roughly* what silver content I
have and that's all I need to know <g>.
My question would be...How 'accurate' do you wanna be, or *need* to be?
Without laboratory analysis meters are only going to get you *in* the
ballpark, *you'll* have to pick the seat you think is the *best* seat
once you get *in* {using all that information about meters, calculations
etc etc available in the public domain}.
N.
----------
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 04:40:56 -0800
From: gajo...@yahoo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: CS>Silver Meter
Hello,
I'm looking for any thoughts on meters to check the ppm. Someone told
me you needed the Hanna PWT that costs about $60. I found a Hanna Primo
for half that. The fellow that told me about the PWT says he checked
the Primo and it wasn't accurate. I contacted the company that sold it
to me and they said it basiclly has the same component inside as the
Hanna PWT. I would like to be able to be fairly certain what ppm I'm
making. Any comments on this is appreciated.
-Thanks Gary
Native American style flutes &
Matted photos by ~ Gajon ~
<http://www.etsy.com/shop/gajon>www.etsy.com/shop/gajon
----------
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