Hi Jeannine, I have built my own HVAC unit. It is almost an exact copy of Bruce Marx's machines. I had a fellow silver-lister measure his electrode setup configuration. I see on Bruce's site http://www.csprosystems.com/ that he now offers a batch-tank for Euro-Asian clients. He does so because his transformers only work with the 110 VAC current. You have to supply your own transformer which is basically a 10,000 to 12,000 neon-sign transformer. I feel I owe it to Bruce to buy his tank. It's an inspired design. Will see how my budget goes. HVAC CS can be a tricky business, and I recommend getting a CSPro HVAC unit. Then you get Bruce's backup with it.
Here are the instructions. They stem from old emails and silver-list posts. Hope this helps. Note: I have made some changes since I wrote this old message. Firstly, I now use double-distilled water, not double-distilled-and-deionized. The conductance is too low with the latter, so that the process takes too long. With normal double distilled water, the process runs for three hours and makes super-quality, clean 15 - 20 PPM CS. The HVAC process that uses the CSPRO setup is very sensitive to good quality water. I have a Waterwise 9000 distiller. Its water quality is not nearly good enough for the HVAC process. The water conducts too well and causes the CS in the tank to become too hot. The transformer also gets very hot. The electrodes are eaten up at a fast rate, and the CS has sparklers in it. Even if I distill water twice in my Waterwise still, it is still not good enough. (Bear in mind that I stay on a farm where the well-water has many impurities.) I recommend double distilled water that is made in a glass/quartz still. ---start paste--- At 01:12 PM 4/30/98 -0400, you wrote: >Could you give a good enough description of your unit for someone else >to try and duplicate it? I have a 9000 VAC 60 Hz 30 mA transformer >sitting here just looking for a purpose in life :-) I'll try... My unit consists of three parts: the power supply, the "brewing" vessel with electrodes and the water in it. I'll describe all three. (I'll paste in some of my previous posts :) I use a 12000 volt ac transformer with the following specs: Primary: 240 v - 1.65 amp Secondary: 12000 v - 30 milliamp 50 Hz, 360 VA This unit is used by neon display companies to power the tubes in the neon signs. Here in SA the transformers can be found in 5000, 6000, 9000, 10000 and 12000 volt, all 30 milliamp. This is according to a guy at a neon sign manufacturer. The transformer measures 225 mm long, 95 mm wide and 130 mm high. It weighs just under 10 kg and is made in Hong Kong - "ah so!" :> I connect a multimeter in series with the live wire and leave it so as to monitor input current for the whole duration of a typical 4 hour run. I first measured the current with the transformer under no load, no wires connected at the secondary terminals and it drew a constant 0.16 amp. I use a one liter glass beaker. I will upgrade this to 2 liter shortly. I have a piece of "plastic" - gray stuff in-between nylon and hard plastic - that I machined on a lathe to fit securely on the top of the beaker. You don't want anything to move around at 12000 volt! It is about 7 mm thick and 11 mm in diameter. It has two ventilation slots on top. The electrode configuration is almost exactly the same as the Bruce Marx setup. Warren was kind enough to measure his setup on the HVAC Ultra. I'll just paste in his very detailed description. (Thanks again Warren.) -----start paste----- The way my CSPro Ultra is set up, there is a bar of silver which is about 1.5 millimeters thick and about 10 by 2 1/2 centimeters. It is suspended by two copper wires hanging down from a female banana plug in the plastic top of the plastic container where the CS is produced. The silver bar hangs horizontally from the two copper wires in the form of an inverted "v" terminating in bent ends like the letter "j" passing through two holes drilled in the upper edge of the silver bar. The bar hangs in the water up to a millimeter or so from the copper wires. In other words, the vast majority of the silver bar is hanging in the distilled water almost to the level of the two holes which are drilled near the top of the bar. On the plastic top to each side of the banana plug terminal for the bar at about 3 and 1/2 centimeters is found another female banana plug terminal. A copper wire connects these two terminals. One of the female banana plugs is filled with plastic so nothing plugs into it. Suspended from each is copper wire that is formed into a one centimeter coil (to allow adjustment) and then terminates in another "j" . A short (about 2 1/2 centimeter) twisted piece of silver wire with an "eye" hangs on each copper "j" wire and is set at about 1 or 2 millimeters from the surface of the distilled water (These hang on each side of the hanging bar). When the unit is set up with the cables from the machine plugged into the top of the water container and all clearances are correct (silver bar in the distilled water all but a couple of millimeters, twisted silver wires a couple of millimeters from the top of the water) then I am ready to turn on the power. At that time, if I have good water, the water jumps up and forms a cone around each twisted wire. With really good water the cones are a centimeter and a half wide and a centimeter and a half tall, surrounding the lower part of the hanging wire. With bad water there is only one cone with the other wire arcing or both wires just arc. Of the three different kinds of distilled water I can get in my area, only one is good. It is called TV (True Value) brand and on the label it says sodium content less than .01 mg per 8 oz serving. It is distributed by Fleming Companies, Inc, Oklahoma City, OK USA (Which I include for those who may read this in the US.) Holes are cut in the top of the plastic pail for ventilation. -----end paste----- I then mailed Warren again for more info. Here are my questions and his reply: What is the diameter of your twisted silver electrodes? I noticed that my small electrodes created a nice water pyramid, but after about half an hour the tips were barely in contact with the water. Does the same happen in your system? I lowered mine to make light contact anyway. Does your manual say anything about this? -----start paste----- Responding to your questions: 1. twisted electrodes are about 1 to 2 millimeters in diameter, I'd say 1.5 millimeters and about 3 centimeters long when new. After several batches they shorten in length and eventually have to be replaced. 2. When I use good water, that is the TV water, the cones stay around the wires during the entire two hours. If I use water that isn't so good, one or both cones drop away after an hour or more and then the side that drops away arcs while the other side doesn't. The cones do drop as the process continues, but as I said, with good water, they never completely leave the wires during the whole two hours. The information indicates that the wires should be within about an eighth of an inch to 3/16ths on an inch above the water. I think that is about 2 to 5 or 6 millimeters above the water. I have found that 2 or 3 millimeters seems to work for me. 3. Diameter of vessel 17.5 centimeters, height 22.5 centimeters. 4. I don't see the Tyndall effect much at all until after 30 minutes to an hour and then toward the top of the vessel only. I stir the water as you do when the batch is over. I do 1/2 gallon (US) batches at a time. After every shift I clean off the silver metal bar with a green brillo pad and I rinse out the vessel and dry it with a clean cloth or paper towel. -----end paste----- I use automotive spark plug wire to connect the electrodes to the transformer. The leads are taped secure to my kitchen table. I use distilled and deionized water. Its conductance is 10 Megaohm per cm. It makes nice "pyramids" and keeps contact for the duration of the process. I now set up the electrodes to about 2 mm above the water level. At start-up, the current is typically 1.37 amp. After 4 hours the current is ~1.46 amp. Well within spec. The transformer is running quite warm, but not hot. The water warms up to ~40 degrees C. at which it remains for the rest of the period. The Tyndall-effect is visible after about half an hour in a dimly lit room. I switch off and stir the water every hour. I do this because the T-effect is mainly visible at the level of the big electrode. There is not much convection at the low water temperature. I am thinking about using a fish tank pump to agitate the water with water bubbles. Problem is that air in the home is quite dusty and will contaminate the water. Have to utilize some form of air cleaner. :) All three electrodes stay clean throughout the process. The small electrodes have a little bit of black on their tips. No visible particles form in the water. A very clean process indeed. The water remains clear and colorless. My last 4 hour run had a particle size of 0.114 micron and 7 ppm. The ppm is tested with ICP and very accurate. As I said previously, the water could have been contaminated with particles this size and the real silver undetected due to its small size. Best is a picture on a e-microscope. I'll get one when I have some time. I have not used the distilled and deionized water in the HVAC setup yet. The water that gave me 0.114 micron size was distilled in a hi-tech quartz still at the chemistry dept. at the local university. I doubt contamination but you never know... Maybe the expensive ZetaSizer had a malfunction? Not likely. I lie awake at night... :) Maybe the 50 Hz here in SA is the culprit. I don't know. But the CS is colorless and has a nice T-effect and is stable. (My oldest batch is about a month old. Too early to tell.) PS. I tried making HVAC at first by using silver wires in the water as in the 30 volt dc process. It creates quite a bit of gray particles in suspension that settle out overnight. I feel that this setup is not worth the trouble. Bruce Marx has a real inspired electrode setup. ---this is where the old email ends--- Hope this helps, Christian ----- Original Message ----- > I noticed in an earlier post that you mentioned a HVAC unit; do you know > where to find the specs for one? I have a guy here in Atlanta that will > build one for me and himself (also my ex is an electronics guy & now has > parasites from traveling internationally - time is kind of the essence to get > this thing built) -- The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver. To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to: silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com -or- silver-digest-requ...@eskimo.com with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the SUBJECT line. To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com Silver-list archive: http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html List maintainer: Mike Devour <mdev...@id.net>
