They can, Dottie.  I use two Silver Maple Leaf Coins and I limit the current to 
400 microamps.  I switch the polarity back and forth whenever I can remember.  
It takes a week using this method but I end up with a gallon of very good CS.

Regards,

Arnold
   
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dottie Glenn 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 7:18 PM
  Subject: Re: CS>generic co-op


  I'm with you, Arnold.  So in light of what you mentioned, why can't the 
silver wire be attached to the wires that come from the power supply, long 
enough to be well out of harms way?



  ----Original Message Follows---- 
  From: "Arnold Beland" 
  Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  To: 
  Subject: Re: CS>generic co-op 
  Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 18:22:45 -0500 
  Dottie, 
  Would the advice apply if the alligator clips did not enter the water? 
  Now come the "What Ifs" 
  What if condensation forms on the alligator clips? 
  What if the water in the glass is sloshed around? 
  What if the person involved is inattentive and puts an excess of water in the 
vessel.? 
  When designing something that people will use I continually ask myself the 
question "what is the dumbest thing a user could do? And yes, I count myself 
among the users. 
  Best Regards, 
  Arnold 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dottie Glenn 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 10:42 AM 
  Subject: Re: CS>generic co-op 
  Arnold - 
  The alligator clips would not actually be in the water, only the silver. 
However, as I'm beginning to understand, this may not be a good way to go 
anyway. 
  ----Original Message Follows---- 
  From: "Arnold Beland" 
  Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  To: 
  Subject: Re: CS>generic co-op 
  Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 07:01:07 -0500 
  Dottie, 
  This is not a good idea. Nothing but pure silver should enter the vessel. 
Alligator clips contain a number of metals and are sometimes coated with 
cadmium. 
  Arnold 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dottie Glenn 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 11:18 PM 
  Subject: Re: CS>generic co-op 
  Hi Bob - 
  Thanks for the response. My thought using the silver coins is, they are .9999 
pure silver, weight 1 oz., and are 1-1/2" diameter and they will last a very 
long time. I'm assuming they will set down in the water all but about 1/4". 
They were actually given to me, so cost is nothing. As I understand it, they 
are worth $7 each currently - not such a bad price for long use I'd say. I was 
planning on attaching them with aligator clips to the sides of the glass 
container. The clips will be attached to wires that run to a 6 volt dc 
transformer. 
  I guess I'll have to visit Radio Shack to explore your stirring suggestions. 
I'll let you know just what I can come up with. After all is said and done, I'd 
probably be better off just buying a pre-made one! However, this 
experimentation is good for me! 
  Sorry to confound you with the coins, but I think it would be hard to beat 
their purity and longevity. 
  ----Original Message Follows---- 
  From: "Robert L. Berger" 
  Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Subject: Re: CS>generic co-op 
  Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 15:15:01 -0500 
  Dottie; 
  I don't know if I can help you, but here are my thoughts. 
  Oh for goodness sakes, why are you using coins. I have no experience with 
  coins. By going off on a tangent from what is generally being done you have 
  raised more questions than shown on you post. It is so much easier to work 
with 
  wire. 
  Sorry, but if you want to work with coins you are on your own as I have never 
  mounted coins to stand up to stirring. You probably paid more for the coins 
that 
  you would have for the wire. I don't know their size, I don't know how you 
  support them. This CS process is apredictable chemical reaction, when all of 
the 
  paramters are under control. It is a mathamatical problem. The wet area of 
the 
  anode determines the ideal amount of current for which the regulator should 
be 
  set. 
  To make a constant current module will cost all of about $2.00. It consists 
of a 
  LM317T semiconductor and a resistor the value of which is determined by the 
  amount current that one wants to regulate. This depends on the surface area 
of 
  sliver in the water. 
  > I'd like to make a quart at a time. Wal-Mart has a 50 oz plastic 
  > container in the area were they had dinner plates etc, for about $5.00. It 
has 
  > a plastic lid that is excelent for mouning things. It has some metal 
hardware 
  > that I took off and threw away. 
  The stir motor is a 1 1/2 volt DC motor from Radio Shack $1.00. with the 
plastic 
  insulation for a #14 copper house wire. One needs about 3 ohms of resistance 
in 
  one motor lead to slow it down. Bubbling DOES NOT WORK!!!!!!! 
  Glue the motor on top of the plastic container lid, attach the coins some way 
to 
  the lid. 
  > Your spacing of 3" is ok, but you need some way of measuring cell current, 
  > such as a digital multimeter. Only after making a few brews were you have 
  > logged thae data can you go by time, and then only is the conductuivuty of 
the 
  > Distilled water is reasonably the same. 
  I don't what to be considered as a "party pooper" but the grade of CS that 
you 
  make will dependon the effort that you take to do it correctly. 
  What are you using for a power supply? 
  Please do not hesitate to ask more questions. I will be glad to answer the 
best 
  that I can. When you go through the archives read my posts on making cs. 
  "Ole Bob" 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > Also, about the constant stirring. Did I undertand you to say that the 
  > stirring is more beneficial than the fish tank bubbler? If yes, just where 
  > or how can I obtain this sort of a device? 
  > 
  > I liked Dr. Jons instructions because they were fairly clear to a layperson 
  > like myself. But still, these nagging issues! 
  > 
  > I realize these questions are probably pretty elemental to you, but I mean, 
  > I'm starting at the bottom here and find conflicting info just everywhere! 
  > Thanks for your help! By the way, I have been going thru the archives, but 
  > it's pretty slow going and I have some rather urgent applications to 
attend, 
  > so I really do appreciate the help. 
  > 
  > Dot 
  > 
  > ----Original Message Follows---- 
  > From: "Robert L. Berger" 
  > Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  > To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  > Subject: Re: CS>generic co-op 
  > Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 19:31:21 -0500 
  > 
  > Dot; 
  > 
  > Basically to make good CS one needs to control the elecrode spacing, wet 
  > length of the electrodes, ans use constant stirring. 
  > 
  > There are generally two system types used; constant voltage and constant 
  > current. Each requires it's own set of cut-off paramters. 
  > 
  > CONSTANT VOLTAGE; 
  > Uses batteries or a power supply that has a fixed voltage, and the 
  > current in the brew cell is monitored with a digital multimeter in one 
  > lead of the cell. For a small amount 8 to 16 ounces with two #14 silver 
  > wires as electrode the shut-off current is between 3 to 4 ma. for larger 
  > amounts of DW then then current must be adjusted for the increased 
  > electrode surface area. 
  > 
  > CONSTANT CURRENT; 
  > This uses a fixed power supply of 27 to 40 volts (can be higher) but in 
  > one cell lead is placed a semiconductor unit that is wire as a constant 
  > current source. This reduces the cell voltage by limiting the cell 
  > current until the current reachs the set limiting value. At that point 
  > the current stays constant. 
  > 
  > In both systems constant stirring has been proven and has now been added 
  > to all of the commercial units. Bubbling of air through the CS does not 
  > supply the velocity between the electrodes to stop agglomeration of the 
  > silver particles. This can de demonstrated with the laser pointer. It 
  > shows up in the brightness of the Tyndall beam. The brighter the beam 
  > the larger the particles and we do notwant that. In fact the very best 
  > CS will have no T.E. 
  > 
  > I hope this help answer your questions. If you have more send them. Also 
  > visit the archives for aditional info. 
  > 
  > I appreciate Dr. Jon's input even if it is antiquated. It is making more 
  > people aware of CS. Remember he is an M.D. and so wemust allow him some 
  > leaway :-) 
  > 
  > "Ole Bob: 
  > 
  > -- 
  > The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver. 
  > 
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  > with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the SUBJECT line. 
  > 
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