On Sat, 10 Nov 2001, I Anderson wrote:

> Forget the bulb, it is not needed, and serves no useful purpose as far
> as I can see.
> You would need one that worked at 36+ volts anyway.

There is a useful purpose, but hopefully not needed. If the rods
were to short together, there would be a large current drawn,
rapidly draining the battery. If there is a suitable voltage lamp
in series with one of the rods, the current would be limited to
that of the lamp rating and the light emmitted would be a warning
that a short existed. The lamps are a very low resistance compared
to the resistance of the DW and rods, so don't affect the brew time
or resulting CS characteristics.

Looking through the Mouser catalog, for a 3 battery, 27 volt system,
the Chicago Minature # 6838, 28 Volts, 0.024 Amps (24 mA), Mouser
P/N 606-CM6838 $1.70 would be ideal. It has wire leads so a socket
is not required, and would limit current flow to 24 mA. Of course,
if a 28V lamp is used on a 36V system and a short occurs, the bulb
will be very bright for a short time, then fail. Two 18V 26 mA bulbs,
#7220 in series would work well for a 36 V system.

>
> You could obtain 3 X 12V low mA bulbs and tie the legs together (three
> legs joined together X 2) but whether they would light at the <8mA
> that you would be using, I don't know.
>
Three legs tied together sounds like a parallel connection, not
series. With three 12V bulbs wired in parallel, the combination
would still light with 12V applied, but use 3 times the current.
Series connection is what's needed.

Of course, those of us that never make mistooks and never let the
rods bump into each other don't need the light bulbs.

John


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