Fire ants are attracted to electricity and often nest in or near those
green transformer boxes.
 Or maybe it's the 60 hz vibrations that transformers make?

Ode

At 06:37 PM 12/9/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>There is a device offered on the net that is a bottomless cone about 1 ft in
>length.  It is solar powered.  Placed point down, it attracts the ants in
>with some sort of vibration.  They can't get out.  It  does not kill the
>queen. I did a brief search for the URL on my HD and I could not find it. 
>
>JOH
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: daddybob [mailto:daddybob52...@yahoo.com] 
>Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 1:47 PM
>To: silver-list@eskimo.com
>Subject: CS>Re: CS>Fire Ants
>
>
>Nothing kills them for good that is legal that I know
>of.
>
>If you called the Ag. Ext. ofc. here about fire ants
>they'd have a good laugh and wish you well. 
>
>Short of drastic poisons and awful things that you
>shouldn't do to the environment (like pouring gasoline
>on them), here are some suggestions.
>
>First- you never get rid of them if they've moved in
>to your area, you just chase them around. The goal is
>to keep them at bay, that's the best you can do.
>
>They hate coffee grounds, but if you have too many to
>deal with, you can't drink that much coffee. The
>grounds have to be wet; don't ask me why.
>
>Many baits and poisons are available. What you don't
>want to do willy-nilly is spread these things around
>where birds and such get into them.
>
>Acephate works best, but can be expensive- here's how
>to use less and do less damage to the environment,
>while chasing the Fireants around very effectively:
>Put about 2-3 tablespoons in the bottom of a 5 gallon
>bucket with a little water, and stir it together. Now
>add water to near the top, then just a drop or two of dishwashing liquid as
>an adjuvant.
>
>Pour about a gallon or two per mound, all over the
>mound. It will wash and uncover the top, and expose
>the larva. Get the larva good and wet and all the
>workers who are trying to move the larva. This way all
>the workers will get some when they try to move the
>colony.
>
>Every day inspect your yard for new small colonies
>that came from the damaged ones. If you do this you
>will rid your yard for maybe a month at a stretch.
>
>This really calls for vigilance in late summer/ early
>fall.
>
>It never ends.
>
>Maybe someone here can modify this method with
>something less poisonous and less expensive. I'm all
>ears.
>
>Daddybob 
>
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