Robert, From: "Robert Marlan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Just getting into my first fullhouse glider. I would desire info on > building (how to glue in those long pushrods..), servo installation on > obechi and composite ships, and how to set up flaps ,ailerons etc. > I know how to program the radio, but how to use the surfaces, coupling and > CROW during setup and flight.... > > Is there any book or websites or other sources of info??? Congratulations on your purchase. A few (hopefully) useful answers: First things first. Get an expert in your local area to show and explain. You will get a lot more mileage out of a local then through email. You might even make a new friend. Servo installation in wings: - put some kind of floor in the servo well, or use a servo can. - many glue the servos into the wing. - method 1: mix 5 minute epoxy & micro-balloons. Put a small dot in the center of the servo & mash it in. - method 2: wrap the servo with a piece of masking tape, that you can cut off, if you need to get the servo out. - method 3: wrap the servo with a strip of heat shrink tubing, for same purpose. - method 4: cut the hole in the wing 'exactly' the same as the shape of the servo. Use shims of foam to ensure a snug fit. Put a tape servo cover over it and call it done. - better have your wiring done before gluing. - most radios expect the servos on opposite wings to be facing opposite directions. In other words, both servo arms should be facing the fuse (or both facing the tips). Check and re-check your installation before you start gluing. - aileron servo neutral is with the arm straight down. - I prefer my flap servo neutral about 10-15 degrees towards the back of the plane. At full flap deflection, there is almost no load on the gear train. (the load is on the bearing). - plan on metal geared servos for the flaps, unless you're proficient at pulling the flaps up the moment you land. Good way to strip gears. Pushrods: - make sure they are straight as they snake through the fuse - consider placing a piece of stiff music wire inside the pushrod tube, while you are gluing. It will help keep the tube straight. Obviously, take it out & replace with a real pushrod when done. - method 1. Put a band masking tape every 4 to 5" along the outer tube. Hang the tube where you want it inside the fuse. Drizzle CA down the tube and it will stick where the tape is. Do this outside or in the garage as some CA will drip to the floor. - method 2. My choice. Use Goop (any kind) to stick the tube to the sidewall. Put several blobs on the tube. Carefully insert, and line up the tube where you want it. Set fuse on it's side & let dry for 24 hours. - method 3. Use any glue you like (goop suggested), but apply with a long dowel. A mess, and a pain, but it can be done. - it's likely your pushrod will stick out free near the servos. Consider supporting the pushrods with a scrap of balsa, either to the fuse or the servo tray. You don't want any room for the pushrod to move from side-to-side. Leave 1-2" of the end free, though. General plane instructions: - get a set of instructions for a Sapphire. About the best I've seen. This plane is obechi, so lots of methods on that, too. Crow: The basics of crow is you want the flaps 80-90 degrees down, and the ailerons somewhat up. How much varies by pilot's taste. Probably 10-20 degrees. You also want a fair bit of down elevator compensation. Try it out at high altitude, and a normal thermalling speed (not high speed). The plane should not pitch up or down when you pull the flap stick. Personally, I prefer a slight amount of down. You will probably want negative aileron differential in this mode, as the ailerons physically may not be able to go up any more. This differential only applies in landing mode. The Airtronics radios have special differential settings just for landing, so this is almost automatic. Also be aware when landing with crow enabled, you are in a high-drag, high lift configuration. If you suddenly retract the flaps, the plane will probably fall out of the air. This is what you want when you are 12" high and right over the landing spot. Probably not what you want at other times. Radio setup: Don Edberg had a yellow book on programming computer radios. It has a strong glider bias, and is a great resource, if you can find one. Out of print. Was about $15. His web site is http://www.flash.net/~dynamic3/ Looks Don's new books (which focus entirely on Futaba radios) have this info too. The website lists at least one chapter only on gliders. If you can't get that, then try the Airtronics Vision manual (only 8 pages). It's a concise and solid reference that gives a good explanation. Both of these explain what you want the surfaces to do, when, and why. I think the what, when, and why is the info you're after. Since you said you know how to program your radio. There is just too much info on glider setup to explain in an email. Useful articles I dug up for you: Construction Tips http://www.nesail.com/construct.html JR Radio Setup http://www.nesail.com/progjr347.html Installing Servos http://www.torreypinesgulls.org/InstallingServos.htm Linkages http://www.torreypinesgulls.org/Linkages.htm Lots more articles: http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles.htm http://www.torreypinesgulls.org/Reference.htm http://www.nesail.com/tips.html I hope this helps, Jon Stone RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
