On Thu, 1 Aug 2002, Bill Johns wrote:

>I'll butt in here again.  First off, aluminum oxide is good hard stuff, but 
>sensitive to certain environments.  For optimal performance, like the 
>really high-end aerospace stuff, the clean, freshly prepared aluminum oxide 
>layer is primed or painted with a non epoxy paint, typically a 
>phenolic.  This protects the aluminum oxide layer from water and epoxy resin.

Do you have a brand name for a phenolic paint?

-J

>
>I hate to say this, but epoxy resins are not that water resistant, there 
>are better resins for water durability out there.  They can be made to be 
>good but it takes work.  Many of the curing agents used to harden the epoxy 
>are amines, chemically identified with -NH and -NH2 groups.  These react 
>with water to form strong alkaline materials which turn the aluminum oxide 
>(sapphire) into aluminum hydroxide, a material which has the mechanical 
>properties of wet corn flakes.  So where does the water come from?  Alas, 
>virtually every glue I know of is porous to different extents to 
>water.  The water as a gas simply permeates through the epoxy layer and 
>attacks the surface.  Life happens.  Fortunately we don't let our planes 
>sit out on hot tarmacs in Houston or Miami after a rain.  We don't have to 
>deal with some of the really ugly reactions that can go on with our 
>planes.  Our planes don't have life expectancies of 20+ years and these 
>reactions do take a while to happen.
>
>And one more thing.  If you want to "post cure" the epoxy, especially the 
>fast cure kind, first let the resin go to a complete cure at room 
>temperature before you hit it with heat.  Don't hit it with heat right 
>after you lay up the glue joint.  Certain reactions have to happen to form 
>the solid before you reheat.  Yes, it will work if you heat it up 
>immediately, but you probably won't get the best strength that way.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Bill
>
>--
>The one good thing about repeating your mistakes is that you
>know when to cringe.
>
>Bill Johns
>Pullman, WA
>
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