Dudes, I've played with knots on bungees too much. I whole-heartedly suggest buying a prepackaged joiner. I've not tried Mark's but if he says it works, I believe him. If you try it and don't like it, I'll buy it from you minus postage.
In the past I've used aluminum tubing from Torque and Recoil Club. It worked so well that I couldn't remove it. I had to cut the darn rubber just to get it off the joiners. I SUSPECT that any tubing or rod would work as long as the diameter is correct. I used 6 inch lengths but I'd GUESS that was longer than necessary. I agree with Mark. Keep the ends rounded and smooth. FYI, every type of joiner I've tried failed eventually EXCEPT the 6 inch tubing mentioned above. Eye protection is a must and turn sideways when pulling the bungee so that a frontal WHACK is less likely to hit a sensitive area. BASHer Charlie MacMurray was whacked with nearly every bungee ever brought to a BASH. Because he pulled WAY too much stretch. Only stretching them to about 300% increases the survival of any joint. If, while stretching, you feel tension stop increasing; you've gone too far. FYI 2, the fishing sinker shaped "ends" that are sold by Hobby Lobby do not work reliably. FYI 3, Be double certain any snaps are twice as strong as you'll ever need. I had a nice ballbearing snap pull apart under tension. The break left a sharp end that torn my shirt and cut me when it hit. It hurt too. Bill Swingle Janesville, CA [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
