Bingo! Right on both counts! opensearcher was false. When I changed it to true, then I could see that master(searching) and master(replicable) both changed. And autocommit.maxtime is causing a commit on the master.
Who uses master(replicable)? It seems for my simple master/slave configuration master(searching) is the relevant version. Maybe solr cloud uses master(replicable)? Thanks, Ron