---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: John Ashworth <[email protected]>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 09:11:25 -0400
Subject: [sudan-john-ashworth] Ancient Kingdoms in Land of War
To: Group <[email protected]>

Ancient Kingdoms in Land of War

By ISMA’IL KUSHKUSH
NYT
Published: March 31, 2013

KHARTOUM, Sudan — Every winter they come and go, like birds migrating
south. Most of them nest in downtown Khartoum’s old Acropole Hotel,
but they’re not here to rest. They’re here to work in Sudan’s
blistering deserts, and the past few years have yielded outstanding
results.

For many people around the world, Sudan conjures images of war,
instability, drought and poverty. All of those things exist here,
often in tragic abundance. But lost in the narrative are the stories
of the ancient kingdoms of Kush and Nubia that once rivaled Egypt,
Greece and Rome.

Lost to many, that is, but not to the archaeologists who have been
coming here for years, sometimes decades, to help unearth that
history.

“Sudan is the only country in sub-Saharan Africa that has real
archaeology and local teams working,” said Claude Rilly, the director
of the French Archaeological Unit in Sudan.

Though its historical importance has long been overshadowed by Egypt,
its neighbor to the north, Sudan’s archaeological record is pivotal to
understanding the history of Africa itself, experts say, and a wave of
new discoveries may be adding crucial new information.

“The history of Sudan can play a role for Africa that Greece played
for the history of Europe,” Mr. Rilly said enthusiastically. “People
have been living here for 5,000 years” along the Nile, he added. “It
is difficult not to find something.”

One overlooked fact is that Sudan has more pyramids than Egypt, in
places like Nuri and Bijrawiyah, though they are smaller and not as
old. In the town of Sedeinga in northern Sudan, for instance, Mr.
Rilly and others excavated 35 small pyramids in the past few years, a
discovery that points to what he called an ancient “democratization of
pyramids.”

“Anyone who could afford it built one,” he said. “It was for social
distinction.”

The pyramids at Sedeinga are built close together. Made of mud brick,
they range in height from under three feet for children to as high as
32 feet for nobles.

Not far from Sedeinga is the town of Dukki Gel, where a Swiss
archaeologist, Charles Bonnet, has been working in the area for 44
years. He focuses on the ancient civilization of Kerma — so much so
that his friends call him Charles “Kerma” Bonnet — which flourished
around 1500 B.C. Mr. Bonnet’s colleagues say that his research has
greatly added to the understanding of 1,000 years of Sudan’s ancient
history.

“I discovered a Nubian city in Dukki Gel with original African
architecture from around 1500 B.C., and in a cache we found 40 pieces
of seven monumental statues of black pharaohs,” Mr. Bonnet said. In
late 2012, he found what he believes are the city’s walls.

At the height of its military power around 750 B.C., the ancient
kingdom of Kush in northern Sudan ruled over Egypt and Palestine,
inaugurating what historians call the rule of the 25th dynasty and the
black pharaohs.

In the heartland of the Kush kingdom, Richard Lobban Jr., an American
archaeologist who has been visiting Sudan since 1970, works mostly in
the area of the Island of Meroe, which was added to Unesco’s World
Heritage sites in 2011. Along with colleagues from Russia and Italy,
Mr. Lobban uncovered an ancient and previously unknown Merotic temple
in late 2011.

“The orientation of the temple has the sun directly pouring into the
temple twice a year,” said Mr. Lobban, suggesting that it was
dedicated to the ancient Egyptian sun god Amun.

Ancient Meroe, known today as Bijrawiyah, was a second capital in the
kingdom of Kush from around 300 B.C. to 350 A.D. It was a major center
for iron smelting, earning it the nickname “the Birmingham of Africa”
by historians. Meroe was often ruled by queens, known by the title
“kandake,” and boasts scores of pyramids similar in shape to the one
exhibited on a one-dollar bill.

“We hope to excavate further and deeper and find still more of the
missing pieces of this ancient puzzle,” Mr. Lobban said.

As fruitful as it may be, archaeology in Sudan faces many challenges,
including the difficulty of protecting sites from development
projects. There has even been a literal gold rush, in which many young
Sudanese head to the desert in search of gold but occasionally find
artifacts instead, leading to a rise in illegal trade in relics.

“Someone was arrested recently for trying to smuggle a statue,” says
Abdel-Rahman Ali, director general of the National Corporation for
Antiquities and Museums.

Financing archaeological efforts has also been low on the list of
priorities for the Sudanese government, but in February the government
signed a $135 million agreement with Qatar that would provide money
for 27 archaeological missions, the renovation of the Sudan National
Museum and the development of tourism projects.

“Archaeology in Sudan is getting ready for a boom,” says Geoff
Emberling, an archaeologist from the University of Michigan, who has
been working in the town of El Kurru.

The impact of new archaeological discoveries has generated interest
beyond the ring of specialists.

Since South Sudan split off from Sudan in 2011, Sudan’s economy has
been hard hit because most of the oil is in the south. In January
2012, South Sudan shut off production in a dispute with Sudan. An
agreement between both countries now promises to send the oil through
the north for a fee, but some in Sudan have been searching for new
sources of hard currency, including tourism.

Sohaib Elbadawi is a member of Sudan Archaeological Society and heads
a private group working on establishing a five-star resort near the
ancient site of Jebel Barkal.

Showing a model of the project in his office in downtown Khartoum, Mr.
Elbadawi said that foreigners told him, “ ‘You have a history, but you
don’t know how to market yourself.’ ”“There are voices rising in Sudan
that tourism should be a source of income for the country after
separation,” Mr. Elbadawi added optimistically.

Sudanese archaeologists are also conscious of current opportunities.

“We have been working to illuminate Sudanese heritage through
exhibitions held abroad, such as in France and Germany, and we are
planning for exhibitions in Qatar, Japan and Korea,” said Mr. Ali of
the National Corporation for Antiquities.

Of course, it will take years for Sudan to turn itself into a tourism
attraction, if it ever can. The lack of fully developed infrastructure
and facilities, United States sanctions that bar the use of major
credit cards, a maddening bureaucracy and, above all, political
instability stand in the way.

But archaeologically speaking, the bounty is evident.

“This is a land of great history indeed,” said Mr. Lobban.

http://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/01/world/africa/in-sudan-archaeologists-unearth-ancient-kingdoms.html?_r=0

END
______________________
John Ashworth

Sudan, South Sudan Advisor

[email protected]

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