My 2 cents. A new access added to the front seems like what should
have been done in the first place -- unless you can do something
crazy like temporarily rotate the tank so the that the top man-way is
at 3 o'clock. Fixing it without making a real access leaves the owner
with one of the original problems. Sooner or later they'll need to
get into the tank for some work. Is the tank interior going to be
blasted clean and resurfaced? It is going to take some real access to
do that. You might need a stiffener collar plate added to the tank
end wall at this new man-way. An oval may be better than a circle
access. Visit the local tank building shop for some ideas. They'll
probably end up with the job anyway. The cover may have to be much
thicker than the tank wall in order to make a bolt-able, leakproof
hatch. It will be heavy. It should have some sort of a hoist point on
the plate. Maybe a bit of structure added above the hatch (welded to
the tank?) would come in handy if possible. The level gauge and any
other new tank connections should not be in this new hatch. Weld
them somewhere else on the tank end wall.
Allan Seidel
St. Louis. MO
One of the issues I am dealing with is that the
manholes are located on top of the tank, are within 12" of the
joists. This means that a hole would have to be burned in the front
of each tank so the vortex plates, level gauges, etc can be
installed. After that, a new manhole would have to be welded on the
front. I have not been involved with many tanks that have required
retrofitting and none this evasive. Any ideas on how to proceed with
this (besides run)?
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