We have recently run into an EOR (sprinkler scientist) that specified S40 galvanized with cut groove or thread for a bunch of pre-action systems because of the water that will be trapped on the up hill side of the roll groove bump.
Ron Fletcher Aero Automatic Sprinkler Phoenix, AZ 85024 -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 8:10 AM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: Galvanized pipe - threaded reducer tees vs. thread-o-lets One excuse I got was from a specifying engineer who didn't know you could groove schedule 40 pipe. He assumed it had to be threaded. He didn't know about cut versus roll grooving. 2" seems to be the standard break point for thread to groove. I was told by one that it was based on a military requirement and he thought that if it was good for the government it should be good for all of his projects. Craig L. Prahl, CET Fire Protection Specialist Mechanical Department CH2MHILL Lockwood Greene 1500 International Drive PO Box 491, Spartanburg, SC 29304-0491 Direct - 864.599.4102 Fax - 864.599.8439 [email protected] http://www.ch2m.com -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Chris Cahill Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 11:02 AM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: Galvanized pipe - threaded reducer tees vs. thread-o-lets Oh and how do you spray the inside of the pipe where the weld occurred? This assumes the galv. is effected on the inside at the weld which may not be true. Chris -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Chris Cahill Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 9:59 AM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: Galvanized pipe - threaded reducer tees vs. thread-o-lets How exactly are you going to re-galv? Is spray paint really galvanization? Always puzzled me why one (client/PE) would on smaller pipe insist on cutting most of the materials off in the threading process over roll grooving and preserving most of the wall thickness. Seems to me grooving with all things being equal would last longer than threading. Can any one shed light on OK to groove larger pipe but must thread smaller? 2" seem to be the break point. Applies to both galv and black, again all things being equal. Chris Cahill, P.E. Fire Protection Engineer Sentry Fire Protection, Inc. 763-658-4483 763-658-4921 fax Email: [email protected] Mail: P.O. Box 69 Waverly, MN 55390 Location: 4439 Hwy 12 SW Waverly, MN 55390 -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Davis, Adam Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 9:20 AM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: Galvanized pipe - threaded reducer tees vs. thread-o-lets The client has agreed to use grooved connection for the 6" main but not for the 2". It seems the practical solution is to use TOLs and re-galvanize to save on field labor and cost. I'm unfamiliar with galvanized pipe so the forum's input has been helpful. Thanks -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 10:09 AM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: Galvanized pipe - threaded reducer tees vs. thread-o-lets Is there a requirement to use threaded versus grooved? If you have corrosion issues the "clamp fittings" aren't galvanized so they could corrode so it's logical that you'd avoid them. If you are threading pipe, the field install labor would be less if you have the thread-o-let in the main. From a materials cost the TOL would also come out cheaper, from all areas of installation the TOL would be cheaper. Sure the shop labor would be more for the TOL but that would have to be greatly offset by the other savings in labor and materials. Also I hope you don't intend to ask for 6" threaded pipe, 2" will get enough frowns. Craig L. Prahl -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Davis, Adam Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 9:29 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Galvanized pipe - threaded reducer tees vs. thread-o-lets I have a 6" galvanized main and have to come off with 40 2" branch lines. I'm trying to determine the least costly way to transition to the 2" branch lines. The two options I have are using 6"x2" threaded reducer tee or 2" thread-o-let and re-galvanizing the weld. The client requires galvanized pipe and does not want to use mechanical clamp fittings. Any suggestions to which method is the least expensive? Thanks Adam Davis NOTICE - This communication may contain confidential and privileged information that is for the sole use of the intended recipient. 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