I was on an earlier thread about finding leaks.  We had 2 fairly large dry
systems installed in the mid 70's and spending a lot of time servicing them.
I was going to try the scented oil method but even after flooding and
hyro-ing them, we couldn't find everyone.  Some of the mains & risers were
behind finish.  After finding leaks in both valve's trim assemblies and
EOL's (good call Todd) and repairing them, all we could guess were buried
grooved couplings.  I couldn't go and buy expensive detectors or listening
devices.  We ended up replacing them with low diff. dry valves, 13 PSI of
air instead of 45.  

I will add, we found lots of trapped sections of main, doubled the quantity
of drum drips.  Plus, don't use a sight glass on the lower leg, they leak.
I thought it might be a good idea, you could see water with a flashlight but
with 2 kinds, brass and ci cross type, the both leaked air.  We did use
longer sections of 2" in the drums where we could, just for more capacity.

Has anyone ever installed a fill line for a traditional dry valve like the
priming valves they have for the external reset dry and deluge valves?  Just
a 1/2" or 1/4" below the gate off the boss and some flexible copper or hose
for filling?  I looked at that priming valve on the low diff. dpv and
thought it might work instead of ladling a coffee cup at a time out of a 5
gallon bucket.

Tom

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