I have been reading, with much interest, about the possibility of
substituting some form of porous "firebrick" for use as alcohol burner
wicks. Someone raised the issue of how to machine the brick to size. I do
not have a ready answer for "wicks" that need to be round in shape, but for
gross cutting , and the precision cutting that is required to make
substitute "wick pads" for locomotives such as the Aster 232 U1 and KPEV P8,
the variable speed band saw that is sold by Micro-Mark
http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/82203.html will do the trick
nicely. The basic saw is US$ 300, a diamond blade for cutting minerals is
US$100, and the coolant system is US$40. Aside from the cost, it is a neat
unit. Had I known about this unit (it was not available at the time) when I
decided to modify a stock Royobi wood working band saw into a metal working
saw, I would have been glad to spend the money instead of making the
conversion.
Those that want to peruse the making of firebrick "dowels" might
investigate the tools that are used in "coring" (drilling) through cement
pads for electric utility purposes. They could be copied in miniature form
by turning up hollow core tools and then "charging" the working ends of the
tools with coarse diamond dust (300 grit or less) and then trepanning the
firebrick to produce the finished diameter "brickwick" (all rights
reserved). I would vote for a tool made out of, in descending order, very
mild steel, bronze, and brass. Any of these choices would have to be used
with a steady supply of coolant and an exquisite touch. Diamond dust is not
an expensive commodity, and can be had from most industrial distributors.
Please be forewarned. Working with any mineral substance is not easy, but
it is dirty and messy.
Based on nothing but intuition (I am a Virgo, Meyer-Briggs INTP) I would
suggest that someone look at the ceramic material that is used in the
overhead gas fired ceramic heaters such as used in Home Depots and other
warehouse stores, to keep the cashiers from freezing to death in the
wintertime, as a potential mineral wick material. This "brand" of ceramic
burner materiel is very different from the type that Calor (England)
manufactures, and that Cheddar uses in their boat boiler burners. First off
it is not "waffled" on top and the through holes used for gas passage are
probably 50% larger in diameter. It is designed to emit (incandesce) while
pointing down as opposed to the Calor product which is designed to emit
upward. The American stuff is frangible, but easy to work with (easier than
firebrick), and it may prove to be of some benefit to you who are
experimenting with the brickwick approach to the use of such an
anachronistic fuel.
One last thing. I am in possession of a couple of JPEGs that show the
first application (that I have seen) of brickwick burner technology coupled
with a stainless steel emitter that turns the mundane alcohol burner into a
very formidable alcohol fired radiant burner. The gentleman who did this
amazing work has encountered similar increases in burner efficiency (90% to
100%) to that I encountered in developing the gas fired radiant poker
burner. Once he is comfortable with his approach and data, I'm sure that he
will publish his results.
In closing, please let me wish all my e-mail friends and acquaintances a
reverential Christmas, and a healthy and prosperous New Year.
KO-5
