Thanks. Just checking which annealing process!.
It has been a long time since I planished copper fruit bowls and plaques in metalwork class at Secondary School. Have to watch they do not spit back at you.
Regards,
Tony D.
At 10:40 PM 2/16/03 -0800, Jeffrey Williams wrote:
Annealing copper is easy - heat to visible red/orange, plunge in water -
not like steel.
===============
Anthony Dixon wrote:
>
> Hi Geoff,
> Interesting subject, good question and answers. I always keep a good
> stock of both types of washers ready for dismantling or repairing my Aster
> engines. Also interesting that Mike does not use any washers at all?. (Must
> have some very flat mating surfaces?).
> Banjo Bolts/Torque:- When I assembled my UI approx. 5 years ago, which
> was my first kit, I broke only one Banjo bolt out of the 25-30 or so needed
> in the kit when lightly torquing down. But when I assembled my King George
> two years later, I had approx 7-8 Banjo bolts snap off using the
> same/similar pressure. The replacement "new" bolts purchased through Jerry
> Hyde were all ok.
> The only thing I could surmise was that the U1 was a "new un-opened
> kit", but still 7-9 years old, the replacement bolts were also probably
> "new" at 1-2 years old, whereas the King George kit was a "new" 12 + years
> older kit. I am thinking these older brass bolts became more brittle over
> time?. Have you, or anyone, experienced a similar problem?.
> Just curious, but a caution for anyone looking to build up an "older
> kit".
> Annealing;- You anneal all copper washers in your kits first before
> assembly?. If so, how?. i.e. assume applying low heat with a small butane
> torch?.
> Best Regards,
> Tony D.
>
> At 11:15 AM 2/16/03 -0800, Geoff Spenceley wrote:
> > I would suggest the copper for high heat or when the mating surfaces are
> >very good. I have found that more torque is required for sealing copper
> >gaskets. Fiber for other connections such as in the event there is cause
> >to disconnect frequently-- for example, if the safety valve is removed for
> >filling the boiler then a fiber gasket is good as it will seal without a
> >lot of torque being required. Banjo bolts with thin walls can be damaged
> >by over torquing so a fiber gasket is in order. I have noted both copper
> >and fiber being provided by the Aster for safety valves.
> >
> >Incidentally, if the copper gasket is hard, it may be difficult to seal so
> >annealing the gasket is in order.
> >
> >I write only from experience and my preference is fiber where possible!
> >
> >Geoff.
> >
> >
> >Where is it best to use a copper washer, and where is it best to use a fiber
> > >washer?
> > >
> > >Mike Eorgoff
> > >near Chicago
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
