Gail.
It is quite OK to use cast iron with cast iron ;;it is the only material
to my knowledge that is compatible with itself .
For instance you can have CI cylinders / CI pistons and CI rings ( try
that with Aluminum ) ?
" NO ECHO " .
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 3:47 PM
Subject: Re: Materials compatibility
> Royce
>
> > However, where does one get .03" cast iron? I have seen suppliers
> > list cast iron available as "continuous cast" bars, but nothing of that
> > thinness.
>
> I used continuous cast bar stock. To cut a false port face, I milled
> the port facing complete with ports, mounting holes and to outside
> dimensions with all features about 1/16 inch deep on the end of a
> short section of the bar stock. Then I parted it off in the lathe to 50
> or 60 thousands thick. Face off a stub of scrap and mount the
> machined port face to it. I use sealing wax. It is still available at
> many stationary shops and on the internet. Don't use the glue stick
> types of wax as they are too soft. This is a hard brittle wax if you
> have never seen it. Heat the stub arbor so the wax will melt on it
> then press the port face to it and let it cool. Then face it off to the
> desired thickness on the lathe. Heat the stub to remove the part.
> Use light cuts.
>
> The old timers used to solder the part to the stub arbor and then
> use the tinned face on the part to solder it to the original port side
> of the cylinder. I never did that. In more modern times others
> have used Cyanoacylate glue (crazy glue) to mount the parts. It
> breaks down at about 350 Degree F to remove the part or there are
> solvents for it.
>
> I am not pushing the iron to iron as other suggestions have been
> good, but I thought you ( and others) might want to know how it is
> done if you should want to try it.
>
> Gail
>
