Hello John Pickard, and List members:
MSC Industrial Supply Co. ( www.mscdirect.com ) has a massive catalog
(over 4000 pages containing over 500,000 items), which includes an
amazing assortment of adhesives. It lists an 18' roll of 3/4" 3M high
performance adhesive transfer tape for about $7 US. (Their minimum
order is, I believe, $25.00) Anyone can browse the website, or order
their catalog on CD or print.
I've not bought adhesives from them, but they're also a source of
lots of hard-to-find items. My orders have been processed promptly,
shipping is same-day, and prices seemed reasonable. All of my
experiences with this company have been good.
Best wishes,
Mac Oglesby
P.S. Although their main focus seems to be USA sales, MSC seems to
accept international orders. From their website FAQ:
Q: What if I'm ordering from an international location?
A: Please call International Sales, Monday through Friday (9am - 6pm ET) at
+1-713-862-8665 or fax at +1-713-862-7921. Delivery, duty, and tax
are the responsibility of the customer and warranties are void
outside of the U.S.
David,
That seems about right, it was such a pad that was used on the aerial for my
mobile phone. I recall that stick-on security plates for laptop computers
also use a pad of double-sided "stuff". Wish I knew where I could buy it.
All I have been able to buy in small quantities is standard DIY / home
hardware grade double-sided adhesive. It may be possible to get the
high-strength stuff from 3M or one of the industrial tape manufacturers. I
haven't tried this yet, but when I have asked manufacturers for small
amounts of other products, I have found that the minimum order / package
size was way beyond my means and needs. Even the agents for some companies
are reluctant to order small quantities.
Cheers, John
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <sundial@rrz.uni-koeln.de>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: Re: SGS Gnomon Attachment
> The 'glue' used to stick car mirrors is actually a very strong double
sided sticky pad. Available from replacement car windsrceen fitters.
> David.
> >
> > From: "John Carmichael" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Date: Fri 25/Jul/2003 17:52 CEST
> > To: <sundial@rrz.uni-koeln.de>
> > Subject: Re: SGS Gnomon Attachment
> >
> > Hi Tony:
> >
> > That's great information to know. I have a feeling the bolting method
> > through glass or the metal structure would be better than the "car
mirror"
> > method.
> >
> > I wonder what method the glassers use to drill glass? I'll have to ask
> > them. But, you know what I'm gonna do? I'm going to try to drill a hole
the
> > same way I drill holes in stone using a high speed diamond sphere with
H2O.
> > But I have no intension of make stained glass sundial windows myself.
But I
> > might try some stone inlays someday.
> >
> >
> > John L. Carmichael Jr.
> > Sundial Sculptures
> > 925 E. Foothills Dr.
> > Tucson Arizona 85718
> > USA
> >
> > Tel: 520-696-1709
> > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Website: <http://www.sundialsculptures.com>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "Sundial Mail List" <sundial@rrz.uni-koeln.de>
> > Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 8:14 AM
> > Subject: Re: SGS Gnomon Attachment
> >
> >
> > > John Carmichael asked:
> > > >
> > > >What do you think is the best method to attach a metal rod gnomon to
a
> > > >stained glass sundial window?
> > > >
> > > >It's the most frequent question I've been getting from the
"Glassers". I
> > > >do have an article that Mike Cowham sent me that mentions that in the
> > > >seventeenth century, a threaded gnomon was usually bolted to a hole
cut
> > in
> > > >the glass. Of course that resulted in a lot of cracked glass and
missing
> > > >gnomons, especially if the glass was thin.
> > > >
> > > I've no practical experience of attaching gnomons to glass but would
like
> > > to experiment with:
> > >
> > > 1. modern adhesives to attach a gnomon with a small baseplate. If it
> > > drops off after twenty years just clean it up and re-attach. The glues
> > > used to stick interior mirrors on car windscreens would be a useful
> > > beginning perhaps?
> > >
> > > 2. attaching through a drilled hole with e.g. a 20mm brass disc on
each
> > > side of the glass and soft vinyl washers in a sort of 'sandwich'
squeezed
> > > gently tight with a nut on the inside. The gnomon could be silver
> > > soldered to the outer disc before assembly. Twin bolts would prevent
> > > rotation.
> > >
> > > A very safe way to 'drill' glass is to use a short piece of
thick-walled
> > > copper tube of e.g. 6mm outer diameter with a few radial sawcuts in an
> > > electric drill.
> > > Garages are a good source of the right stuff.
> > >
> > > Place the glass flat on a firm/soft supporting surface, e.g. cork, and
> > > build a tiny 'dam' around the intended hole site with Plasticene. Mix
a
> > > little turpentine with carborundum powder, place a few drops within
the
> > > dam and you can abrade a neat clean hole in no time but reduce the
> > > pressure at breakthrough or the hole edges may flake. A thin piece of
> > > wood with a 6mm hole will guide the tube until it begins cutting after
> > > which it is just gently lifted and replaced to refresh the abrasive.
> > >
> > > Have fun
> > >
> > > Tony Moss
> > > -
> > >
> >
> >
> > -
> >
>
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