to imitate it, but would like to make a couple of observations.
Drawing out the design directly on the stone means that you have to do the
whole thing by hand. You can calculate the hour angles using formulae but
it is somewhat labor intensive and depending on the type of dial this could
become difficult. Doing the lines may not be that hard, but engraving the
numbers would be particularly difficult for me to do without a direct
trace. Granted, it is possible to do it all by hand but generating
everything on paper using a computer and printer you can then use the
result to trace directly onto the stone makes everything, particularly the
physical act of engraving, quite a bit easier. Annika Larson's step 7,
"Cut. (or drill, or engrave or whatever)" would be my downfall.
It is true that the stone originally has texture but note that John's
technique involves grinding it reasonably flat before adhering the
paper. Also, note that John developed the technique using
sandstone. Slate is soft enough to carve by hand with a straightedge and I
was more or less successful using John's technique on slate. I am now
going to give it a try on limestone, which should also be soft enough to
carve.
I guess my point is that a relatively inexperienced stone cutter can use
John's technique and produce something that is at least acceptable without
years of practice.
Jack
At 07:32 AM 9/6/2005, Frank King wrote:
Dear All,
I was fascinated to read...
John Carmichael's Stone Cutting & Carving Technique
This eloquently describes an interesting set of procedures.
What is particularly noteworthy to me is that there is
almost no overlap with standard stone cutting procedures
that I have come across in traditional stone workshops in
the U.K.
All the sundials I have ever worked on have been in stone
(mostly slate but several in limestone and one in granite)
and different workshops use different practices. There is
clearly no `right' approach.
That said, I consulted the most gifted stone-cutter I know,
Annika Larsson from Sweden, and I asked her to spell out
her own procedures in an analogous step-by-step way.
Here (very slightly edited) is what she wrote...
ANNIKA LARSSON'S STONE CUTTING & CARVING TECHNIQUE
1. Draw a scale design.
2. Order stone to size.
3. Organise fixings in the back, if required.
4. Rub surface, if necessary.
5. Draw out the design ON THE STONE
a. set out guidelines
b. draw design
[ Review the design at this stage:
Does it work?
Will small adjustments have to be made? ]
c. have a final LOOK
6. Spellcheck
a. check papers/correspondence [with client]
b. do a letter by letter check of the text on
the stone
7. Cut. (or drill, or engrave or whatever)
8. Wash. Leave to dry. Time varies depending on
type of stone.
9. When stone is dry, gild and paint. Methods vary
depending on type of stone again.
10. Leave paint to dry over night. With gilding leave
for a week.
11. Wash and burnish if necessary.
12. If pins/fixings are required, attach at the end.
Annika was rather astonished when showed her John's
procedures (which are self-evidently sound). There
seemed to be several steps which are not obviously
needed. In particular:
If you can draw it on paper, you can draw it on stone,
and the result will be more real. You can use the space
much better. A paper surface and a stone surface are
different. Paper is flat. The stone has depth.
This is very subtle, though. Most people wouldn't think
there was a difference.
I hope this may be of interest to some readers.
Frank H. King
Cambridge, U.K.
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