Hello Mark

>I think that part of the acid advice comes from Terry UK's old, old
>message that's up at your site- 'add a gloop' I think it says.

Yes, then it says "Not too much", and then it says wait and add 
another gloop if necessary, in other words a little at a time. But 
indeed it's not exactly precise. He sent me what I thought was an 
updater a couple of months back, but it was the same as the previous 
one, so I guess he still does it that way, and I also guess it works 
well for him, but that in practice he'd have a much more precise idea 
of what a "gloop" means.

>It was
>the best info there was at the time (a lot better than the
>bound-for-emulsion suggestions in Tickell's book which tell you to
>basically spray water at the stuff, I've been there done that and boy
>did it confuse me when it went to emulsion).
> Terry's article is where I first saw bubblewashing instructions and
>though Aleks gives a different way of doing it, the 'just add a gloop'
>of acid bit sticks in one's mind I think. I thought that 'just keep
>adding acid' advice from Terry also really threw me off when I was
>first starting out with washing, as it didn't really explain emulsion
>other than to suggest fixing it with acid (with little accounting for
>different strengths of acid, etc...) Which is primarily why I wrote
>that article you've got up there. Perhaps Terry's article could use a
>link to your notes on acid in case people don' t find it by
>themselves?

Unless you already have the url I don't think there's any way of 
navigating direct to Terry's article except via the main 
Bubblewashing page, and the acid advice is right there directly below 
the link, and there are "Back" buttons at the end of Terry's article:

Back to:
Bubble washing
Aleks Kac's wash method: Washing.
Mike Pelly's method: Washing and drying.
Bubblewashing 101 by Maria Alovert

That should be enough.

>by the way when you use acids to break emulsion, how much acid do
>people use, compared to the amount needed to get the water pH to go
>neutral? It seems to me that it takes a while to see visible results
>by the 'just add some till emulsion clears' method, so people probably
>overdo the acid waiting to see results. Just a hunch.  Maybe a more
>scientific approach to that particular problem is in order as well?

But wouldn't the more scientific approach be not to make MGs in the 
first place? And to be less impatient in the second place? Better not 
to make a mess than to get expert at cleaning it up.

>(I am a very big fan of hot water washing now and dont ' get emulsion
>at all no matter how vigerous the wash is, in fact I've been
>experimenting with all the 'emulsifying' wash methods- what Todd calls
>"Frog in a Blender'.  I'ts still quite hot outside right now so it
>doesn't cost me much in energy to heat. In winter it'll be a different
>story)
>
>. So I still don't recommend
> > >acidulating as a matter of course, unless you know what you're
>doing.
> > >It can be done right if you do a titration for soap/catalyst first
>to
> > >find out how much acid to use (that HCL/ bromophenol blue indicator
> > >titration that Juan described a week or so ago).
> >
> > Why do a titration? Adding it slowly while monitoring the pH should
>do.
>
>
>I'd like to test this out against that soap test, see if it turns out
>the same. Someone's already done the research to figure out what the
>soap test titration tells you in exact numbers, so it's one of those
>rare things in biodiesel shadetree testing, a quantitative measure.
>It's what I was looking for a year ago with quest

Let us know what you find.

Best

Keith


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