I've been playing around with a new tool called maperitive<http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Maperitive>lately which renders osm data on the fly and allows you to specifiy custom map rules. I'm developing a map style which is a lot more cleaner than the default mapnik one, you can check out the preview of the style here http://www.flickr.com/photos/arunganesh/5104440951/
The rule file is here http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/User:Planemad/neutralmap -- http://j.mp/ArunGanesh
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