Hi Jack: If you have a piece of equipment that has the desired color, just take it to you local paint store (Kelly More, etc) where they should have a digital colorimeter. They can then blend a paint that when dry will be the same.
Have Fun, Brooke Clarke http://www.PRC68.com http://www.precisionclock.com http://www.prc68.com/I/WebCam2.shtml 24/7 Sky-Weather-Astronomy Cam Jack Hudler wrote: > Way off topic: > > > > I know we have a few Ex-HP employee's here, so this is a long shot. > > But I would like to know the what paint was used by HP and there color > values or codes. I know they vary slightly from one lot/day/month/year to > the next. > > The reason I ask is, I'm completely redoing a couple pieces of my HP gear. > > Managed to get a great match on the background, sort of an off white > greenish tint (light puke pea green my wife calls it), but the darker one > are eluding me and I suck at color matching. > > > > I'm replacing the panels by scanning in an image and then creating a whole > new one in Photoshop. > > I then paint a Hard-Temper Aluminum Foil .003" (McMaster Carr 9012K27) with > the background color (2 part urethane automotive paint). > > Then I color sand (err remove all the imperfections) and cover the painted > surface with inkAID (Clear Gloss Precoat II see www.inkaid.com). > > Put it in my inkjet printer and viola! A new front panel! > > I then cover the panel with a 2 part urethane clear (baked in the oven) > which is then epoxied onto the old damaged one. > > All that remains is to cut out the holes with sharp X-Acto knife and > reassemble. > > > > However, the whole process of matching colors from scanner to screen to > inkjet (overlaid on a tinted background) really is total guess work without > a calibrated color source and colorimeter to verify the results. This is the > reason for my request. > > > > All in all it's a pretty easy process! You don't have to use the two part > urethane stuff, any oil based acrylic will do nicely. > > Like the two part stuff because it very very hard and durable! Cures fast in > an oven! Not to mention you can lay on quite a few coats and then flat sand > and polish to a mirror surface. > > (Note: The two part urethanes need a respirator and a good spray booth) > > The results are better than new. I even enlarge the text and numbers > slightly for my aging eyes! > > > > > > Jack > > > > Links: inkAID: http://www.inkaid1.com/Products/Gloss%20II.html > > Foil: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagetype=fasttrk > <http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagetype=fasttrk&search=9012K27&resul > tsContext=ITMLOOKUP&resultsQueryStr=searchstring%3D9012k27%26tab%3Dfind%26Fa > stTrack%3DTrue%26ftctlgpg%3D%26FlCntxt%3Dfindtab> > &search=9012K27&resultsContext=ITMLOOKUP&resultsQueryStr=searchstring%3D9012 > k27%26tab%3Dfind%26FastTrack%3DTrue%26ftctlgpg%3D%26FlCntxt%3Dfindtab > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
