Good comments. But here is the reality. I find soldering smt stuff difficult. But do-able. I do not have microscopes etc. Tools, 25 watt iron with to big of a tip and to large of a solder diameter. Did create nasty solder bridges that I figured out a trick. Simply heat the two legs and take a steel straight pin and run between the legs. Clears the bridge nicely. But Bert and others suggested a different approach that I will try tonight.
Writing the program is the easier part ( Bert's done it already). There has to be several versions. HP built 5-7 different 3586s series that are really internally different and no magical way for the software to know what box its in. After that it truly is a small number of wires. By the way in the C code Bert has all of the frequency combinations for the different models. Again no way to sense what box its in. Nope I do not really know C, but I can read. But the real secret of all of this is collaboration. Bert and I both contributed to the design, troubleshooting etc. I learned a heck of a lot from Bert in the process. Thats what its about for me at least, sharing learning and trying to apply. Sorry to say I can't get into the kit/board building business. Regards Paul WB8TSL On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 12:48 AM, WB6BNQ <wb6...@cox.net> wrote: > Perrier, > > Your simple idea is a non workable concept. Instead of whining about the > complexity, why not contact Bert or Paul Swed and see if one of them would > do you a favor and build the item for you. I do not believe the hookup part > is that hard to do and if You follow instructions well it should be quite > doable. > > Bill....WBBNQ > > Perry Sandeen wrote: > > > Fellow Listers, > > > > Please read and think a bit about my comments before rushing to the reply > button. The comments are meant to be technical. > > > > When Burt VE2ZAZ posted his HP 3586A/B/C entirely referenced to 10MHz: A > solution, I was drooling with envy to add it to my units. However, after > reading what it took to make and program it I was completely deflated. > > > > While there are those on the list with extensive educational and > technical resources, Burt’s project may be just fine. And for those who > can make it, go for it. I made a pros and cons list. > > > > Advantages Dis-advantages > > Small- Will fit inside case SMD Components > > Low power requirements Needs Programming > > Inexpensive Program varies for various models > > Awesome build quality Almost comes up with the correct numbers > > > > Sometimes the only way to solve a problem is with SMD’s, programmed > devices etc. But I suspect that for most of us “solutions†of this type > are really impractical. Some posts seem to suggest that everyone can > program devices, write code, and can work with SMD’s as easily as getting > a hamburger at Micky D’s. It just ain’t so. On my level I have to use > the KISS principle. > > > > Several alternative methods: > > > > The cheap method. Turn the crystals 90 degrees so they are perpendicular > to the PC board. Make a simple TL431 temperature regulated circuit (I found > it on the web by a google search) with a bit of copper and insulation. A > small supplemental adjustable tuning capacitor and/or varicap circuit may be > needed. It will probably get one as close as the original programmed mod > IMHO. > > > > The high priced exact solution. Use a HP 3336 locked to the same > external standard one is using for the HP 3586B. Remove the original > crystal circuit and inject the exact number one needs and get the exact > results without any dithering. > > > > I’m blessed to have almost all the test equipment, or its equivalents, > mentioned on this list sans a spectrum analyzer and from post’s that I > have read I’m way ahead of many of the members. > > > > I’ve been very impressed, and have learned a great deal, with the posts > on the T’bolts, answers to my posted qurstions, WWVB, and HP oscillator > fine tuning tips to name a few. > > > > On subjects over, or in many cases way over, my head I just read and > delete but others find them both fascinating and useful and that’s just > fine. > > > > Regards, > > > > Perrier > > > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
