The photos I posted at http://goo.gl/87e8GG show the differences between the 
two boards - there is more to it than just adding a GPS board.  The underside 
has a bunch of additional components beneath the antenna connector.

Anthony

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of GandalfG8--- 
via time-nuts
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 12:00 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Lucent KS-24361, HP/Symmetricom Z3809A, Z3810A, 
Z3811A, Z3812...

Hi Arthur
 
Thanks for your further comments, and certainly no need for the  "sorry".
 
It was your pioneering work that inspired recent efforts to  start with, and 
the confusion over the pin numbers that led Gotz to the, just  grounding pins 2 
and 3, 2 link solution we have now.
 
Overall, I'd say, not a bad result:-)
 
Good luck with the 10 MHz conversion, I'll probably do that soon as well, after 
bringing out the 5 Mhz, but for now I'm just letting them cook whilst 
monitoring the 15MHz.
 
As has been previously commented, aside from the GPS module, there seems to  be 
very little difference between the Ref-0 and Ref-1 modules, and I'm quite 
tempted to make up my own patch lead, whip out the GPS module from one of my 
Ref-1 units, and then couple the two Ref-1s together to see how they cope with 
that:-)
 
Regards
 
Nigel
GM8PZR
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 03/11/2014 17:13:15 GMT Standard Time, 
golgarfrinc...@gmail.com writes:

GandalfG8 at aol.com GandalfG8 at aol.com Sun Nov 2 09:08:30 EST  2014
wrote:

"Ooh err, whoops, and oh dear !!

Arthur, I've only  just had a chance to look at your latest photos, and unless 
I've really got  my wires crossed, if you'll pardon the expression:-), your 
links on J5  are not shown on pins 2, 10, 12, and 15,  but on pins 4, 6, 11, 
and  13."
+++++++++++++++++++++

Darn-I'm glad someone was paying more  attention than I was when I wrote that 
years ago. Apparently when I was  documenting what modifications I had made I 
just picked up a 15 pin D plug  shell to get the numbers instead of looking at 
the obvious numbers on the  RFTG socket connector and those connectors being 
mirror images have the  numbers reversed. I was out geocaching yesterday and 
didn't catch up on the  new posts until this morning so I'm a little late in 
responding. I also  checked to see if I had any other scribbles on the changes 
I made and found  this: "If pin 2 is held low the 'ON' LED will flash. A pulse 
low will turn  it on.
The RC timer holds pin 2 low to flash for about 6 seconds so you  can see it 
actually happens then pin 2 returns high and the 'ON' LED  stays on solid."

So apparently some of the parts I added were to  just make the light look like 
they were working correctly (can you spell  OCD?) and may not be necessary. As 
I originally said, this was a hack and I  wanted others to duplicate what I had 
done to see if any of it made sense  to them. At least it appears that by 
adding the circuit I came up with  and/or adding jumpers you can get the RFTG-u 
REF 1 unit to work without the  slave unit.
I just ordered another RFTG-u REF 1 and will see if I can  modify that and get 
it to output 10Mhz instead of 5Mhz like my original  unit.

Sorry about the screw up on the  numbers.

-Arthur
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