Petr Menšík writes:

Am I missing something?

Yes, system is being shoved down your gullet, whether you like it or not.

would NetworkManager.conf:
dns=default

Write resolv.conf again? Can I make it rewrite after disabling
systemd-resolved? Why doesn't it restore /etc/resolv.conf on
systemd-resolved shutdown?

Yes, /etc/resolv.conf is a symlink. Apparently NetworkManager has been changed to write /run/NetworkManager/resolv.conf instead, so you can set /etc/resolv.conf symlink to point to it.

This whole house of cards is an epic fail. There is already a perfectly usable architecture in place to handle this: alternatives. Both NetworkManager and systemd should use alternatives to claim dibs on /etc/resolv.conf, and alternatives will manage the symlink itself.

This is just plain dumb. /etc/resolv.conf should be an alternatives-managed link. If it were, you'd immediately know how to obtain the list of all the alternative configurations, and have a simple mechanism for selecting how you want DNS to be configured, and complete freedom to use or not use systemd-resolved. I refuse to believe that this obvious solution never occured to anyone, instead it was decided to intentionally cram systemd- resolved down everyone's throat and make people jump through hoops to get rid of it.

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