Patty & Chris,
That spring is to prevent collapse of the suction hose when the pump
pulls a vacuum on it.
When you have the pump on the bench, it's very easy to connect a pair of
hoses, drop the suction into a bucket of water and TEST the thing.
There is usually no check valve between the pump and the supply tank, as
the pump's own inlet valve functions as such. However, there IS a check
valve installed right at the city water inlet; that's to keep the pump
from putting all of your water overboard through that inlet.
If you follow the sequence I outlined for Robert, checking for air
pressure soon after energizing the pump, you'll know immediately if it's
working or not. As the water heater fills, you'll get more and more of a
"pffft" when you open a faucet because there's less air space in the
system, so it'll build pressure faster. Once the system is full of
water, the pump will build pressure to its shutoff point within a second
or 2 of when you close the faucet.
Installing an accumulator, as discussed here a while back, keeps the
pump from cycling quite so much and smooths out its operation.
<<Jim>>
> Patty & Chris Peters wrote:
>
> Robert-
> I'm going through some issues with the onboard pump myself. I've got
> a PAR pump (peters and russell). It runs but I couldn't get the
> system to pressurize. I disassembled the pump and the rubber seems
> find. No signs of dry rot but the valves appear rigid. Should they
> be pliable? And about how long does it take to pressurize. I kind of
> cheated and charge the system using city water then switched to the
> freshwater tank with no success. Is there a check valve prior to the
> inlet? In taking off the hose leading to the pump I noticed coiled
> wire in the hose. Is this to retain it's shape and keep it from
> collapsing?
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
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