Opened up my mac classic, mac classic ii, and mac se, seems they do take 50v. 
Sorry about that, guess that is what I get for trusting a website.




Sorry, but I just cannot afford the websites you two are recommending, buying 
in bulk is not viable for me right now so ebay will have to do. Here are the 
panasonic capacitors I have picked out.




http://www.ebay.com/itm/220853167321

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381093683561

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321736487444

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121233694077

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360645605739

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121238446382




The 33uf and 1uf for the mac se are the ones with the leads as it had ones with 
leads in it. 


And my poor mac classic had a blown up battery with acid all over the place, 
weird thing is it was the only one that actually worked out of the three. I 
cleaned it a bit with some alcohol and will change the battery. 


Do you guys think I should change the capacitors on everything? Like in the 
powermac 6500 there are some on the internet cards and such, and in the all in 
ones there are the bigger capacitors on the second boards. Or should I just 
stick with the main/motherboards?








From: Jeff Walther
Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎May‎ ‎18‎, ‎2015 ‎1‎:‎48‎ ‎PM
To: [email protected]







On Monday, May 18, 2015 at 10:49:03 AM UTC-5, Violet Cloud wrote:
It's 1uf 16v 



Apple used 1uF, 50V almost everywhere where they used 1uF.    However, they 
seem to have done that for inventory reasons or some such.   50V isn't needed 
in those places.   I have a couple thousand 1uF, 35V surface mount tantalum 
caps in the 'B' size which is a good size to replace the electrolytic cans.

Also:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/T491B105K050AT/399-9720-1-ND/3724761
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/T491B105K035AT/399-3702-1-ND/819027

Certainly also available from Mouser and Farnham, but these were quick to look 
up.

Jeff Walther

 


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