Hmmmmm...
Then this should mean theres no need for separate relays?? Maybe as Im
having no probs now the prob was just due to a bad connections and/or
headlight switch??
Asad
From: "Sharkey's Garage" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu>
To: "'Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List'" <vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 68 bug Headlight problem
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 18:07:25 -0700
The "standard generic automotive relay" that everyone is talking about is
rated at 30A, which is more than enough for either your low beam or high
beam circuits. Such a relay often comes in those aftermarket foglight kits
that you find in many stores. Properly wired in, your factory headlight
switch will have to deal with only a few mA to trigger the relays.
Standard modern halogen bulbs (900x, H4, etc.) are rated at 55 Watts, which
translates into 4.0-4.5 Amps per bulb. They are available in 90-120 Watt
versions as well which aren't really legal for the street (even though they
are less bright than HIDs) so the math would work out to 7.0-9.0 Amps per
bulb -- still below the maximum limit of those generic relays.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Suleman Ishaq
Sent: August 28, 2007 9:42 AM
To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 68 bug Headlight problem
What is the max current on the relay and switch? Are the higher wattage
bulbs drawing more current than that?
Suleman
CA, USA
asad ishaque <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Volks,
I had fit a brand new headlight relay earlier for the probs I described.
Still there was a smell of overheating while driving the bug at night.
'Investigation' while driving revealed that the headlight escutcheon
was heating up.
Took the trouble of some more tinkering today. Found this:
The wire connectors going from terminal 56 of the headlight switch to
terminal 56b of the relay was heating up. In fact the plastic clips on both
ends were melting up and turned to globs.
Rummaged thru my parts bin to find another good headlight switch.
Cleaned it up and installed. (had noticed that there was a slight amount of
rock in the previous switch's terminal 56). Still heat. Then took a fresh
piece of wire, crimped new clips at both ends and installed. Made sure
clips
were tight n snug.
Well after this the wire still heats up but not as much as before.
I may get shot by the people for not revealing this earlier but Im
running higher than stock wattage bulbs for the heads. Could this be the
source of probs???
I am now thinking of having another aftermarket non vw relay working
with the original relay for switching on the headlights. Would that make
life easier??? Can people suggest where I should put that assuming its a
good option.
Waiting for input.
TIA
Asad
Karachi, Pakistan.
>From: "asad ishaque"
>Reply-To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
>To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
>Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 68 bug Headlight problem
>Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2007 11:40:19 +0000
>
>Hello Chuck,
>
> The loose terminals were on the relay, so I guess the probs fixed. I
>will however check for any hot spots as described by another member here.
>
> The plastic fuse box cover is missing on all my cars. In fact I have
>yet to SEE a cover in person in my years of VW and VW parts hunting. All
>have been thrown out by the owners or the people who are trusted with
doing
>jobs on VWs. Sad.
>
> Bearing grease may be a better option as you say.
>
>Asad
>Karachi, Pakistan.
>
>
> >From: Chuck Kuecker
> >Reply-To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
> >To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
> >Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 68 bug Headlight problem
> >Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2007 06:24:21 -0500
> >
> >Hi, Asad,
> >
> >Good to hear that you found the trouble. If it was my car, I would
> >replace the loose #30 terminals with new ones to avoid future problems.
> >Those connectors work on pressure between the connector and blade to
> >make a "gas-tight" contact. If they get too loose, the contact will be
> >high resistance, and get hot.
> >
> >Petroleum jelly will evaporate too - just takes longer. If you have the
> >plastic cover over the fuses, they stay pretty clean. An alternative is
> >wheel bearing grease, but the jelly is neater and cleaner. You don't
> >have to use a lot of the stuff - just enough to make a film over the
> >part of the terminal where the contact is.
> >
> >Chuck Kuecker
> >
> >asad ishaque wrote:
> > > As a matter of fact day before yesterday in the evening I tinkered
on
> > > my dub.....that was after I sent out the querries.....
> > >
> > > Had to get my bug on the road since I did not feel like borrowing
> > > dads ride for going to work that night.
> > >
> > > Had a spare brand new headlight relay left over from the resto of
> > > my second 68 bug.
> > >
> > > Simply replaced it and yes!! Everything picture perfect again!
> > >
> > > I found that four out of five, except for the number 30 terminals
> > > can be rocked on the relay. Maybe this was causing probs. The spade
> > > connectors were all tight and snug, in fact so tight that I got the
> > > wire off instead of the connector while pulling one.
> > >
> > > The fuse box does hold the key to a lot of mysteries I have also
> > > learnt. I clean up the terminals with emery cloth like you say but
go
> > > on to coat it with Phillips contact cleaner, which I have seen
> > > evaporated over a short while. Maybe petroleum jelly is a better
> > > option. But would it not create a mess by trapping dirt??
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > >
> > > Asad
> > >
> > > Karachi, Pakistan.
> >
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>
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