Hi!

Do note, once you log out, you still have a cookie that prohibits edge caching, 
I think ;-)

> My browser, while reloading,

Don't hit "reload" button, thats what it does - reloads all assets. 

> bits.wikimedia.org  then again and then again here and there....  needed
> time to reload a simple, very simple web page: 12 s.

What kind of connection do you have? 
On a simple eastern european dsl I get under 1s rendering times. 

> I guess, that if a plain html + css cached  version (without any default js
> and perhaps with a single, included css section) of the page could be found,
> such a time would be much shorter.

Though indeed we could have some more work done for first-load performance, 
which you are measuring with 'reload', it may not be absolute priority, as no 
skin assets are loaded on any subsequent page views. 

Domas
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