[old-chevy-truck] Re: [oletrucks] How to clean seal rusty gas tank??
Thanks Peter, That link seems to be what I'm looking for. Durwood 51 Chevy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window 52 Burb From: PDM [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Durwood B. Darbin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [oletrucks] How to clean seal rusty gas tank?? Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2006 20:19:35 -0400 Durwood this link advice looks pretty good for gas tank cleaning http://kzrider.com/content/view/22/11/ Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: New Camshaft
thank you for your info on 292 truck motor.are there any quick way of telling if it is a real 292? - Original Message From: Jeff Pohlar [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 12:44:37 AM Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: New Camshaft First off, the 292 was not used in passenger cars. I don't even recall them in half ton trucks. The were used in the 3/4 tons and up. The engine is great for trucks because of its torquey power similar to the 300 cid Ford. It looks almost identical to the Chevy 194, 230, and 250 cids except that it is slightly taller to allow for the extra stroke length. In the late seventies, the cylinder head was flimsy and had a habit of cracking. You can use the earlier cylinder heads that have separate intake and exhaust manifolds instead of the integral manifold set up. The engine has the same bolt pattern as the V8 small/big block Chevys and will not bolt up to the original AD stovebolt drivetrain. Jeff in Clermont, FL 53 3800 Chev -Original Message- From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mr JERRY CYRE Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 9:25 PM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: New Camshaft WHAT CAN YOU MEN, TELL US ABOUT 1979 292 OUT OF A PASS. CAR I WOULD LIKE TO INSTALL IT IN MY SON'S 1953 AD. - Original Message From: vwnate1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 7:47:06 PM Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: New Camshaft First , don't wa$te your $ on a 235 cam , get one for a 1962 261 from a C60 . Try Isky Cams in South Central L.A. , I forget what part of L.A. it's in , prolly Gardena or thereabouts , South Figeuro Av. IIRC . Ed is still quite active , I saw him @ lunch last summer , still chomping on his ever present cigar . They make camshafts for pretty much anything . ask for a -new- stock cam and solid lifters... I don't trust regrinds , ever . I dunno if they'll have the aluminum timing gears too , the crank gear will of course be steel . -Nate Casey wrote: Hi all, In the continuing camshaft gear failure, I'm now looking for the following new parts: 1) 57 235 camshaft 2) 12 solid lifters for above 3) Full set of rocker arms Jim Carter is BO on these... with no delivery in sight. Other sources? Thanks as always! Casey '53 3800 PANEL Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: [oletrucks] How to clean seal rusty gas tank??
I've heard other taking a chain or nuts/bolts -anything really, placing in inside the tank and rotating many time. This will know loosen the rust, then use a sealer to seal. I think POR 15 has a sealant.. --wayne At 07:09 PM 4/22/2006, Durwood B. Darbin wrote: Some say phosphoric(sp) acid and others cry muratic acid. I haven't found anything that says what mixture of either nor the duration of a cleaning session. I have a can of tank sealer from Jim Carter Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] How to clean seal rusty gas tank??
Durwood, Do you have a radiator shop that also does the Reneu process? If so, they can do the complete job for about $150 and it will be guaranteed. Jim V. At 07:09 PM 4/22/2006 Saturday, Durwood B. Darbin wrote: I'm going to try and repair my rusty Burb gas tank that has one small hole near the filler tube. New ones are $600.00+ and no one is interested in making a new one. I have searched the archives and am perplexed as to what kind of acid I should use to clean out the rust on the inside of the tank. Some say phosphoric(sp) acid and others cry muratic acid. I haven't found anything that says what mixture of either nor the duration of a cleaning session. I have a can of tank sealer from Jim Carter. So my question to the group(s) is -- What strength, how long is a treatment, how many treatments and what kind of acid should I use to remove the rust from my Burb gas tank? Any web sites that would be helpful? The Burb is now running and is currently at the fabricator for an exhaust system. My new gas tank is a modified 1 gallon Authentic Wal-Mart gas can that is bailing wired up to the fender brace. The seats are getting recovered in Spanish grain maroon. Tires are next week. I am also looking for a cheap loan to pay for all of this. =8o Durwood 51 Chevy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window 52 Burb Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Jim V. 1958 GMC Suburban Carrier Pickup (Cameo style) - V8 Hydramatic http://www.angelfire.com/mi2/jrvvehicles [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] 292 ident
Sure, give me the casting number from the engine block. It will be a 6 or 7 digit number raised cast (not stamped) on the block. If you had access to a known 230/250 cid engine, you could compare the height of the push rod cover aka side cover. The side cover of the 292 is slightly taller than the 250 covers by approx 3/4. Other than that they look identical. To verify the casting date, find the date code on the block also. It is a raised cast alphanumeric code that will start with a letter followed by either three or four digits. It will look something like this: E148 Looking forward to help. Jeff in Clermont, FL 53 3800 Chev -Original Message- From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mr JERRY CYRE Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 8:23 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: New Camshaft thank you for your info on 292 truck motor.are there any quick way of telling if it is a real 292? - Original Message From: Jeff Pohlar [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 12:44:37 AM Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: New Camshaft First off, the 292 was not used in passenger cars. I don't even recall them in half ton trucks. The were used in the 3/4 tons and up. The engine is great for trucks because of its torquey power similar to the 300 cid Ford. It looks almost identical to the Chevy 194, 230, and 250 cids except that it is slightly taller to allow for the extra stroke length. In the late seventies, the cylinder head was flimsy and had a habit of cracking. You can use the earlier cylinder heads that have separate intake and exhaust manifolds instead of the integral manifold set up. The engine has the same bolt pattern as the V8 small/big block Chevys and will not bolt up to the original AD stovebolt drivetrain. Jeff in Clermont, FL 53 3800 Chev -Original Message- From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mr JERRY CYRE Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 9:25 PM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: New Camshaft WHAT CAN YOU MEN, TELL US ABOUT 1979 292 OUT OF A PASS. CAR I WOULD LIKE TO INSTALL IT IN MY SON'S 1953 AD. - Original Message From: vwnate1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 7:47:06 PM Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: New Camshaft First , don't wa$te your $ on a 235 cam , get one for a 1962 261 from a C60 . Try Isky Cams in South Central L.A. , I forget what part of L.A. it's in , prolly Gardena or thereabouts , South Figeuro Av. IIRC . Ed is still quite active , I saw him @ lunch last summer , still chomping on his ever present cigar . They make camshafts for pretty much anything . ask for a -new- stock cam and solid lifters... I don't trust regrinds , ever . I dunno if they'll have the aluminum timing gears too , the crank gear will of course be steel . -Nate Casey wrote: Hi all, In the continuing camshaft gear failure, I'm now looking for the following new parts: 1) 57 235 camshaft 2) 12 solid lifters for above 3) Full set of rocker arms Jim Carter is BO on these... with no delivery in sight. Other sources? Thanks as always! Casey '53 3800 PANEL Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] clutch still giving me fits
Never had a problem with slippage, just sticking and not disengaging. Won't be a problem too much longer as I plan to change the flywheel, the disc, plate, and bearing as well as fork linkage. I will replace it with a 10 clutch and the 10 3/4 will go in one I'm rebuilding, which I think is a '57 engine. So far the rocker tubes and most of the push rods are toast but hopefully the block and head will be OK. K M Lehmann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sounds more like linkage problem, have you checked the fork lately? Usually a worn clutch just slips. Lee - Original Message - From: James Tye To: Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 5:05 PM Subject: [old-chevy-truck] clutch still giving me fits Had a load of sand and stopped at a light on a hill. took off in first and that's when it went out and wouldn't shift. Finally got back into first and down the road I went with people going around me and a few of them females looking at me like maybe they didn't want to be my girl. Got off the main street and the clutch went to working again and I got home with my sand. Went to St. Joseph and of course, nobody has a clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. Sears didn't even have a transmission jack, so I guess I'll just let a mechanic put the mess back because I'm taking a road trip to Fairbury NE, where I will drag home a 1 1/2 ton truck with this same '49 Chevy 1/2 ton and a tow bar. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] clutch still giving me fits
There was 2 different pressure plates used, one took a short throwout bearing and the other a longer one. Lee Prosser WA - Original Message - From: James Tye [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 8:02 AM Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] clutch still giving me fits Never had a problem with slippage, just sticking and not disengaging. Won't be a problem too much longer as I plan to change the flywheel, the disc, plate, and bearing as well as fork linkage. I will replace it with a 10 clutch and the 10 3/4 will go in one I'm rebuilding, which I think is a '57 engine. So far the rocker tubes and most of the push rods are toast but hopefully the block and head will be OK. K M Lehmann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sounds more like linkage problem, have you checked the fork lately? Usually a worn clutch just slips. Lee - Original Message - From: James Tye To: Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 5:05 PM Subject: [old-chevy-truck] clutch still giving me fits Had a load of sand and stopped at a light on a hill. took off in first and that's when it went out and wouldn't shift. Finally got back into first and down the road I went with people going around me and a few of them females looking at me like maybe they didn't want to be my girl. Got off the main street and the clutch went to working again and I got home with my sand. Went to St. Joseph and of course, nobody has a clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. Sears didn't even have a transmission jack, so I guess I'll just let a mechanic put the mess back because I'm taking a road trip to Fairbury NE, where I will drag home a 1 1/2 ton truck with this same '49 Chevy 1/2 ton and a tow bar. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: [oletrucks] How to clean seal rusty gas tank??
Actually, if you look in the POR 15 catalog, they have a fuel tank kit which includes a cleaner, rust remover, sealer and some other stuff, for $54.95. The web site is _www.por15.com_ (http://www.por15.com) . I haven't ever used it, so I can't testify to it's worth. -Mark [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] fuel problem?
Took my truck out Easter Sunday to get gas.On my way to the gas station,it stalled out on me twice and died at the pumps twice.Couldn't get it started.Have a clear glass filter just before the carb and it was empty.I had just got gas.Poured some gas down the carb but it still wouldn't start.Towed it home.Let it sit for a couple of days and tried to start it again.Got it started but wouldn't idle.Took the carb apart to look for dirt.Blew it out and tried it again.Would idle only with the choke on.If I tried to keep it running with just the gas pedal,it would pop through the carb.Ran it today with idle screw turned in to get it to idle without the choke on.That worked but still pops through the carb.If I pull the choke out and give it gas,it seems fine.The tank is clean,new fuel lines,new fuel pump,and no debris in the filter.Any thoughts?Thanks in advance.Tom from N.J.1950 1/2 ton 216 new rebuild.- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] How to clean seal rusty gas tank??
Durwood, you want to use phosphoric acid, used extensively in auto resoration as a pre-primer; and not muriatic (used in construction industry for cleaning brick, etc). Phosphoric acid should be available at your local hardware store in the paint section as Ospho. It will be about $18 for a gallon. You can use it straight but it works just fine if you dilute it down too, (I think you can go all the way down to 1 part Ospho to 10 parts water) and your gallon will last longer. Instructions on the side of the jug. Clean the gasoline and rust out of your tank out with TSP (also at the painters supply) and a length of chain in the tank first, shake it all around and you will be amazed at all the crud that comes out. Then drain and do the same thing with the Ospho. This job takes patience. Give it a few days in the sun to dry before you use the tank sealer and let your tank sealer dry for a few days before you put in your sending unit. Use long nitrile gloves, long sleeves and a respirator mask 'cause Ospho will burn your skin and lungs like battery acid if you are not careful (ask me how I know). Alan '50 Chevy 1/2 ton Denver - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 6:55 AM Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] How to clean seal rusty gas tank?? Durwood, Do you have a radiator shop that also does the Reneu process? If so, they can do the complete job for about $150 and it will be guaranteed. Jim V. At 07:09 PM 4/22/2006 Saturday, Durwood B. Darbin wrote: I'm going to try and repair my rusty Burb gas tank that has one small hole near the filler tube. New ones are $600.00+ and no one is interested in making a new one. I have searched the archives and am perplexed as to what kind of acid I should use to clean out the rust on the inside of the tank. Some say phosphoric(sp) acid and others cry muratic acid. I haven't found anything that says what mixture of either nor the duration of a cleaning session. I have a can of tank sealer from Jim Carter. So my question to the group(s) is -- What strength, how long is a treatment, how many treatments and what kind of acid should I use to remove the rust from my Burb gas tank? Any web sites that would be helpful? The Burb is now running and is currently at the fabricator for an exhaust system. My new gas tank is a modified 1 gallon Authentic Wal-Mart gas can that is bailing wired up to the fender brace. The seats are getting recovered in Spanish grain maroon. Tires are next week. I am also looking for a cheap loan to pay for all of this. =8o Durwood 51 Chevy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] fuel problem?
Tom..sounds like its starving for fuel and when you try to compensate by pumping the pedal, you get some backfiring. Fuel pump maybe? Roy - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 3:07 PM Subject: [old-chevy-truck] fuel problem? Took my truck out Easter Sunday to get gas.On my way to the gas station,it stalled out on me twice and died at the pumps twice.Couldn't get it started.Have a clear glass filter just before the carb and it was empty.I had just got gas.Poured some gas down the carb but it still wouldn't start.Towed it home.Let it sit for a couple of days and tried to start it again.Got it started but wouldn't idle.Took the carb apart to look for dirt.Blew it out and tried it again.Would idle only with the choke on.If I tried to keep it running with just the gas pedal,it would pop through the carb.Ran it today with idle screw turned in to get it to idle without the choke on.That worked but still pops through the carb.If I pull the choke out and give it gas,it seems fine.The tank is clean,new fuel lines,new fuel pump,and no debris in the filter.Any thoughts?Thanks in advance.Tom from N.J.1950 1/2 ton 216 new rebuild.- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] fuel problem?
As I mentioned before,the fuel pump is new.I'm not saying it isn't possible though.Tom in N.J. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 292 6 Banger
Jerry ; I see no mention of any 292 here (I copied the note you replied to) The 292 is a _long_stroke_ truck engine , very torquey but -NOT- good for high revs and takes a goodly bit to install into a '53 unless the truck allready has a SBC conversion , then it's pretty much a bolt up deal . -Nate JERRYwrote: WHAT CAN YOU MEN, TELL US ABOUT 1979 292 OUT OF A PASS. CAR I WOULD LIKE TO INSTALL IT IN MY SON'S 1953 AD. - Original Message From: vwnate1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 7:47:06 PM Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: New Camshaft First , don't wa$te your $ on a 235 cam , get one for a 1962 261 from a C60 . Try Isky Cams in South Central L.A. , I forget what part of L.A. it's in , prolly Gardena or thereabouts , South Figeuro Av. IIRC . Ed is still quite active , I saw him @ lunch last summer , still chomping on his ever present cigar . They make camshafts for pretty much anything . ask for a -new- stock cam and solid lifters... I don't trust regrinds , ever . I dunno if they'll have the aluminum timing gears too , the crank gear will of course be steel . -Nate Casey wrote: Hi all, In the continuing camshaft gear failure, I'm now looking for the following new parts: 1) 57 235 camshaft 2) 12 solid lifters for above 3) Full set of rocker arms Jim Carter is BO on these... with no delivery in sight. Other sources? Thanks as always! Casey '53 3800 PANEL Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: How to clean rusty gas tank??
Durwood ; 1st foremost : DO NOT use Muriatic acid ! IT EATS GOOD METAL ! anyone says otherwise doesn't know what they're talking about , _PERIOD_ . Phosphoric acid doesn't eat good metal , only rust ` it _CANNOT_ damage your irreplaceable Suburban tank . If you're still worried , look in 'phone book for Gas Tank Re-Nu it's a chain that uses a system to repair any tank , even totally rusted out ones and they'll gaurantee it too . $pendy to say the least . I'd do the Phosphoric Acid thing but no good clothes and not on the lawn nor on nice cement as it'll etch the shiny cement driveway and kill the lawn . _After_ it's de-rusted , you can either have the hole welded or use POR-15's gas tank kit to fix and line it , use tape on the outside of the hole as a dam untill the lining sets up and NO SHORTCUTS ! this is why some folks claim the tank cleaning and lining kits don't work = they skip steps or say that's good enough and it never is ~ take your time , do not rush any part of the job . I use Phosphoric Acid and packages of BBs to clean the rusty tanks , mucho shaking of the tank whilst it's full of at least one gallon of the mix is necessry , your arms will get painfully tired , just keep at it , have the kids shake it awhile , think of those nice long drive in your 'Burb catching adoring glances from other AD owners not so lucky and keep at it... Rinse well , strain the effluent through some clean cloth untill it comes out 100 % clean ! . -Nate Durwood wrote: I'm going to try and repair my rusty Burb gas tank that has one small hole near the filler tube. New ones are $600.00+ and no one is interested in making a new one. I have searched the archives and am perplexed as to what kind of acid I should use to clean out the rust on the inside of the tank. Some say phosphoric(sp) acid and others cry muratic acid. I haven't found anything that says what mixture of either nor the duration of a cleaning session. I have a can of tank sealer from Jim Carter. So my question to the group(s) is -- What strength, how long is a treatment, how many treatments and what kind of acid should I use to remove the rust from my Burb gas tank? Any web sites that would be helpful? The Burb is now running and is currently at the fabricator for an exhaust system. My new gas tank is a modified 1 gallon Authentic Wal-Mart gas can that is bailing wired up to the fender brace. The seats are getting recovered in Spanish grain maroon. Tires are next week. I am also looking for a cheap loan to pay for all of this. =8o Durwood 51 Chevy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window 52 Burb Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: clutch still giving me fits
Well hell ; Who wants a gal who doen't like old trucks anyway ? =8-) . My clutch gave me fits until I rustled up a flywheel cover -and- washed between the disc and flywheel , now it works great unless I really heat it up , then it drags all the time as it's worn out Keep on truckin' James . -Nate James wrote: Had a load of sand and stopped at a light on a hill. took off in first and that's when it went out and wouldn't shift. Finally got back into first and down the road I went with people going around me and a few of them females looking at me like maybe they didn't want to be my girl. Got off the main street and the clutch went to working again and I got home with my sand. Went to St. Joseph and of course, nobody has a clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. Sears didn't even have a transmission jack, so I guess I'll just let a mechanic put the mess back because I'm taking a road trip to Fairbury NE, where I will drag home a 1 1/2 ton truck with this same '49 Chevy 1/2 ton and a tow bar. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 8 Wheel Drifts And Here Comes The Ditch !
Remember when you're (stupidly) towing a larger , heavier vehicle: When it begins to jacklife , stay OFF the brakes and steer _into_ the skid and you'll prolly get it back under control before you tip into the ditch , I always did and eventually I learned (I think) to NOT tow with a smaller vehicle ! . go _S L O W L Y _ if you insist on doing this , we need all the old truck guys we can . -Nate James wrote: I'm taking a road trip to Fairbury NE, where I will drag home a 1 1/2 ton truck with this same '49 Chevy 1/2 ton and a tow bar. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: fuel problem?
Sounds like a vacuum leak to me ~ either the phenolic insulator underneath the carby is cracked or maybe the intake manifold bolts have vibrated loose , both are very common . -Nate Tom wrote: Took my truck out Easter Sunday to get gas.On my way to the gas station,it stalled out on me twice and died at the pumps twice.Couldn't get it started.Have a clear glass filter just before the carb and it was empty.I had just got gas.Poured some gas down the carb but it still wouldn't start.Towed it home.Let it sit for a couple of days and tried to start it again.Got it started but wouldn't idle.Took the carb apart to look for dirt.Blew it out and tried it again.Would idle only with the choke on.If I tried to keep it running with just the gas pedal,it would pop through the carb.Ran it today with idle screw turned in to get it to idle without the choke on.That worked but still pops through the carb.If I pull the choke out and give it gas,it seems fine.The tank is clean,new fuel lines,new fuel pump,and no debris in the filter.Any thoughts?Thanks in advance.Tom from N.J.1950 1/2 ton 216 new rebuild.- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: fuel Pump problem?
Easy to test : disconnect the carby inlet line and step on the starter ~ IGNITION OFF ! ~ Strong streams of fuel should squirt out the open end of the fuel line 3 or so , if not or just dribbles , check the tank to pump siphon 1st. , then fiddle with the fuel pump . -Nate Tom wrote: As I mentioned before,the fuel pump is new.I'm not saying it isn't possible though.Tom in N.J. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] clutch still giving me fits
That scares me. A nearly 5,000 pound load behind a 3,500 pound pickup with brakes designed to stop a total of about 4,500 pounds. Have you updated or improved your brakes? Those brakes are marginal by today's standards already and this trip you describe is expecting quite a bit more from them that they were ever intended to stop. [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.OldSub.com - Original Message - From: James Tye [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 5:05 PM Subject: [old-chevy-truck] clutch still giving me fits I'm taking a road trip to Fairbury NE, where I will drag home a 1 1/2 ton truck with this same '49 Chevy 1/2 ton and a tow bar. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [old-chevy-truck] fuel problem?
Check fuel supply at carb inlet. Empty looking fuel filters are common and are not reliable for diagnosis. It should shoot a good pulsing stream out of the fuel line while cranking. Normal would be about a pint in less than thirty seconds at 3-5 psi which is easily plugged with your thumb but still be able to feel the pressure against your skin. If fuel supply is good and you are confident about the cleanliness of the carb, then move on to check for vacuum leaks, etc. Intake valve hung open, hose fell off, etc. May even do a compression check. Another thought is a spark problem. A bad ignition condenser can give wild symptoms that appear like lean problems. BTDT. Check condition of cap, rotor, wires, points, etc. while you are in there. Jeff in Clermont, FL 53 3800 Chev -Original Message- From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 7:47 PM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] fuel problem? As I mentioned before,the fuel pump is new.I'm not saying it isn't possible though.Tom in N.J. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] So why do I want a 261 vs 235 stock cam?
So here I am with the '57 transplant 235 engine down to the point of lifters, rockers, pushrods and cam all out. covers all off and cleaned. I'm awaiting my order of new solid lifters, timing gears, rocker arms, gaskets, and 235 stock cam but as posted before, the cam all but 2 lifters and half of the rockers are BO from Carter's. Found a full set of rockers and lifters new elsewhere, and can get a 235 cam from Advance Auto as it turns out, $94. Off list folks have encouraged me to put a 261 cam in the 235, but said I'd need to pull the head and change out the valve springs. Don't really want to do that so ordered all stock. So what's the deal once and for all on the 261 cam? Would I need new valve springs? Would I need new cam inserts in the journals in the block? Would I need different timing gears, or are the 235 timing gears OK? What would the overall benefit of this change be? The rest of the truck is stock, including no rear shocks after all! I don't try to chirp the tires on this thing, I save that for my beater Allante! Thanks to everyone, really. I love learning more about the truck I've had for 30 years! Confused Casey 53 3800 Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] truck wont run
sounds like you maybe have valve problems. like maybe the valves are sticking open-hence the backfire. have you checked your plug wires and plugs? check for spark? back to basics... good luck. mark Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] 292/230/250
if i remember right the 292/270 both have a much wider head area that is OUTSIDE the valve cover. the other smaller motors hide most of the head under the EXACT same valve cover. block looks wider... etc... if youre gonna go that route a 250 with 9:1 hyperutectic pistons, and a good moderate Rv cam with headers will pump more power than you know what to do with. and.. youll be able to start in 4th gear with a stock 411 rear. mrk Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] In need of a little help identifying this find
Hey all, I've been pretty quiet lately, but I'm still alive out here!,lol. Well, I was scouring through the local trader paper this morning, when I came across a guy selling A D7 Cat dozer for $3000, great deal so I called on it, the dozer was sold, and we got to talking, the conversation drifted to old Chevy's. Well, he tells me he's got this 47 flatbed with a dump on it that's in need of restoration, but he's just at a point he'd be happy to get rid of it, I said oh really?! Thinking I just found the missing parts for my 47 Loadmaster, I inquired further on it, He got to saying it had turret headlamps and turn signals mounted to the grille, I thought that odd for a 47, then he mentioned the old fold up cowl type hood. Right then I knew it was definitely a pre 47 and he didnt know it. I told him I'd look at it, hooked up the trailer pretty much knowing I was going to snag it, and got down there. It is indeed a rare bird. It has a diamond plate flatbed on it with a hydraulic dump cylinder, powered by a remote PTO off the tranny with an external chain drive linking the pto to the tranny. you can tell by the setup and in cab levers that it is definitely a setup from back in the day. The ID plate is located under the top of the cowl hood on the right cowl side of the firewall and badly weathered, the only thing readable was the stamping on it GWB12 and 2683 The engine block number can probably be cleaned up enough to read with a file, but the battery located on the fight firewall above it has corroded it pretty badly, I popped the valve cover and got 838773 from the head, it looks to be a 216, with the full side plate over the spark plugs 2 center bolt valve cover. The dash has no provision for a radio or a heater, and a single rectangle instrument cluster. The windshield is 2 piece flat, with a center dash crank to tilt it out, The grille has a cursive Chevrolet on top of it, the rear axle is a lever and cable operated 2 speed. 5 lugs on front with 10 lugs on rear. I ran the head number thru Hemming's site, it came back 37-40. I ran it thru inliner's site, it came back 37, so, I think it is a 37? I posted some pics of it under 37 Flatbed with dump PTO, if anyone can positively identify this rig to anything better than what I have so far, I would certainly be appreciative. I plan to restore it, with the body rebuilt as is, and upgrade the engine and tranny, possibly even the suspension to add shock absorbers and disc brakes, and make it into a flatbed tow truck for my old projects. -Chris -And no, the fuel is too stale for it to explode Natelol Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: In need of a little help identifying this find-added in
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Chris [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hey all, I've been pretty quiet lately, but I'm still alive out here!,lol. Well, I was scouring through the local trader paper this morning, when I came across a guy selling A D7 Cat dozer for $3000, great deal so I called on it, the dozer was sold, and we got to talking, the conversation drifted to old Chevy's. Well, he tells me he's got this 47 flatbed with a dump on it that's in need of restoration, but he's just at a point he'd be happy to get rid of it, I said oh really?! Thinking I just found the missing parts for my 47 Loadmaster, I inquired further on it, He got to saying it had turret headlamps and turn signals mounted to the grille, I thought that odd for a 47, then he mentioned the old fold up cowl type hood. Right then I knew it was definitely a pre 47 and he didnt know it. I told him I'd look at it, hooked up the trailer pretty much knowing I was going to snag it, and got down there. It is indeed a rare bird. It has a diamond plate flatbed on it with a hydraulic dump cylinder, powered by a remote PTO off the tranny with an external chain drive linking the pto to the tranny. you can tell by the setup and in cab levers that it is definitely a setup from back in the day. The ID plate is located under the top of the cowl hood on the right cowl side of the firewall and badly weathered, the only thing readable was the stamping on it GWB12 and 2683 The engine block number can probably be cleaned up enough to read with a file, but the battery located on the fight firewall above it has corroded it pretty badly, I popped the valve cover and got 838773 from the head, it looks to be a 216, with the full side plate over the spark plugs 2 center bolt valve cover. The dash has no provision for a radio or a heater, and a single rectangle instrument cluster. The windshield is 2 piece flat, with a center dash crank to tilt it out, The grille has a cursive Chevrolet on top of it, the rear axle is a lever and cable operated 2 speed. 5 lugs on front with 10 lugs on rear. I ran the head number thru Hemming's site, it came back 37-40. I ran it thru inliner's site, it came back 37, so, I think it is a 37? I posted some pics of it under 37 Flatbed with dump PTO, if anyone can positively identify this rig to anything better than what I have so far, I would certainly be appreciative. I plan to restore it, with the body rebuilt as is, and upgrade the engine and tranny, possibly even the suspension to add shock absorbers and disc brakes, and make it into a flatbed tow truck for my old projects. -Chris -And no, the fuel is too stale for it to explode Natelol I forgot to add in, on the engine, it does not have the usual vent tube, it has instead a valve cover with 2 raised slots stamped in it at the front and rear ends about 1 long each. It has the electric stomp start, but the grille also has a hole for a crank starter and the balancer has the tapered ears for crank starting. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
