Thanks Peter, That link seems to be what I'm looking for.
Durwood
51 Chevy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window
52 Burb
From: PDM [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Durwood B. Darbin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] How to clean seal rusty gas tank??
Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2006 20:19:35 -0400
Durwood
this link
thank you for your info on 292 truck motor.are there any quick way of telling
if it is a real 292?
- Original Message
From: Jeff Pohlar [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 12:44:37 AM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: New Camshaft
First
I've heard other taking a chain or nuts/bolts -anything really, placing in
inside the tank and rotating many time. This will know loosen the rust,
then use a sealer to seal. I think POR 15 has a sealant.. --wayne
At 07:09 PM 4/22/2006, Durwood B. Darbin wrote:
Some say phosphoric(sp) acid and
Durwood,
Do you have a radiator shop that also does the Reneu process? If so, they
can do the complete job for about $150 and it will be guaranteed.
Jim V.
At 07:09 PM 4/22/2006 Saturday, Durwood B. Darbin wrote:
I'm going to try and repair my rusty Burb gas tank that has one small hole
Sure, give me the casting number from the engine block. It will be a 6 or 7
digit number raised cast (not stamped) on the block.
If you had access to a known 230/250 cid engine, you could compare the
height of the push rod cover aka side cover. The side cover of the 292 is
slightly taller than
Never had a problem with slippage, just sticking and not disengaging. Won't be
a problem too much longer as I plan to change the flywheel, the disc, plate,
and bearing as well as fork linkage. I will replace it with a 10 clutch and
the 10 3/4 will go in one I'm rebuilding, which I think is a
There was 2 different pressure plates used, one took a short throwout
bearing and the other a longer one.
Lee
Prosser WA
- Original Message -
From: James Tye [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] clutch
Actually, if you look in the POR 15 catalog, they have a fuel tank kit which
includes a cleaner, rust remover, sealer and some other stuff, for $54.95.
The web site is _www.por15.com_ (http://www.por15.com) . I haven't ever used
it, so I can't testify to it's worth.
-Mark
[Non-text
Took my truck out Easter Sunday to get gas.On my way to the gas station,it
stalled out on me twice and died at the pumps twice.Couldn't get it
started.Have a clear glass filter just before the carb and it was empty.I had
just got
gas.Poured some gas down the carb but it still wouldn't
Durwood, you want to use phosphoric acid, used extensively in auto
resoration as a pre-primer; and not muriatic (used in construction
industry for cleaning brick, etc). Phosphoric acid should be available at
your local hardware store in the paint section as Ospho. It will be about
$18 for a
Tom..sounds like its starving for fuel and when you try to compensate by
pumping the pedal, you get some backfiring. Fuel pump maybe?
Roy
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 3:07 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] fuel
As I mentioned before,the fuel pump is new.I'm not saying it isn't possible
though.Tom in N.J.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to:
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Yahoo!
Jerry ;
I see no mention of any 292 here (I copied the note you replied to)
The 292 is a _long_stroke_ truck engine , very torquey but -NOT-
good for high revs and takes a goodly bit to install into a '53
unless the truck allready has a SBC conversion , then it's pretty
much a bolt up deal
Durwood ;
1st foremost : DO NOT use Muriatic acid ! IT EATS GOOD METAL !
anyone says otherwise doesn't know what they're talking about ,
_PERIOD_ .
Phosphoric acid doesn't eat good metal , only rust ` it _CANNOT_
damage your irreplaceable Suburban tank .
If you're still worried , look in
Well hell ;
Who wants a gal who doen't like old trucks anyway ? =8-) .
My clutch gave me fits until I rustled up a flywheel cover -and-
washed between the disc and flywheel , now it works great unless I
really heat it up , then it drags all the time as it's worn out
Keep on truckin' James
Remember when you're (stupidly) towing a larger , heavier vehicle:
When it begins to jacklife , stay OFF the brakes and steer _into_ the
skid and you'll prolly get it back under control before you tip into
the ditch , I always did and eventually I learned (I think) to NOT tow
with a smaller
Sounds like a vacuum leak to me ~ either the phenolic insulator
underneath the carby is cracked or maybe the intake manifold bolts
have vibrated loose , both are very common .
-Nate
Tom wrote:
Took my truck out Easter Sunday to get gas.On my way to the gas
station,it
stalled out
Easy to test : disconnect the carby inlet line and step on the starter
~ IGNITION OFF ! ~
Strong streams of fuel should squirt out the open end of the fuel line
3 or so , if not or just dribbles , check the tank to pump siphon
1st. , then fiddle with the fuel pump .
-Nate
Tom wrote:
That scares me. A nearly 5,000 pound load behind a 3,500 pound pickup with
brakes designed to stop a total of about 4,500 pounds.
Have you updated or improved your brakes? Those brakes are marginal by
today's standards already and this trip you describe is expecting quite a
bit more from
Check fuel supply at carb inlet. Empty looking fuel filters are common and
are not reliable for diagnosis. It should shoot a good pulsing stream out of
the fuel line while cranking. Normal would be about a pint in less than
thirty seconds at 3-5 psi which is easily plugged with your thumb but
So here I am with the '57 transplant 235 engine down to the point of
lifters, rockers, pushrods and cam all out. covers all off and cleaned.
I'm awaiting my order of new solid lifters, timing gears, rocker arms,
gaskets, and 235 stock cam but as posted before, the cam all but 2
lifters and
sounds like you maybe have valve problems. like maybe the valves are
sticking open-hence the backfire.
have you checked your plug wires and plugs? check for spark?
back to basics...
good luck.
mark
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just
if i remember right the 292/270 both have a much wider head area that
is OUTSIDE the valve cover.
the other smaller motors hide most of the head under the EXACT same
valve cover.
block looks wider... etc...
if youre gonna go that route a 250 with 9:1 hyperutectic pistons, and
a good moderate Rv
Hey all, I've been pretty quiet lately, but I'm still alive out
here!,lol. Well, I was scouring through the local trader paper this
morning, when I came across a guy selling A D7 Cat dozer for $3000,
great deal so I called on it, the dozer was sold, and we got to
talking, the conversation
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Chris [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Hey all, I've been pretty quiet lately, but I'm still alive out
here!,lol. Well, I was scouring through the local trader paper
this
morning, when I came across a guy selling A D7 Cat dozer for
$3000,
great deal so I
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