I found this site a few months ago and thought I should share this with netters.
Its basically about a Vet. Dr. (who helped in projects at Assam
Veterinary College and Assam Agriculture College) wrote letters, kept
notes while he was in the NE in the early 60s.

He has given a description about Nehru's visit to Assam (after the
language riots in the 60s), his experiences in opening vet. clinics,
impressions about tamul/paan. There is also on one Kaziranga, N.
Lakhimpur, Tezpur, Gauhati,

On the whole, its basically his impressions, some of them are
condescending (maybe), while in others he is intrigued, but it does
take us back into those days in the 60s.

Interestingly enough, Nehru was in Assam because "Assam was the most
geographically isolated and most politically neglected state of all
India. Yet Assam was a critical area for India's survival"

Anyway, I found it to be an interesting read. Seems like this Doctor's
son has setup the web page where a special section has been devoted to
the NE.

Hope you all enjoy it.

http://homepage.mac.com/muirpower/docsstory/


http://homepage.mac.com/muirpower/docsstory/indias_jaws_of_death.html

Gauhati, Assam, India 
October 28, 1962 

Dear Son: 

So you would like to hear more details of my adventures along the
Northeast Frontier Agency?

In this letter I will attempt to bring you up to date on my recent
vigil under rough circumstances at my wilderness clinic near North
Lankinpur.

In this remote area there are no distinct boundary lines. There have
been many disputes among the tribal communities. Today we have been
exposed to six different tribes. Assam has a total of 365 tribes.

After leaving Tezpur, the winding roads following the twisting small
stream edges were full of chuckholes and rocks. No bridges. We were
able to cross the streams at designated places. Fording was possible,
but dangerous. Many vehicles received broken axles when their wheels
slipped from the soap-slick boulders.

My driver threw me a big smile each time we had a successful crossing.
My driver on this trip was a slender, sickly man approaching his
retirement years. His name was Sandra Das. I called him Sandy even
though he had black hair. He had learned, through experience, the ways
of hardship. His small waistline and weak muscles were proof of
malnutrition. I could see tears forming in his eyes when he was faced
with a flat tire or a serious car problem. We realized his waning
strength would present an ordeal which in his youthful years would
have been a pleasant challenge.

In India, instead of chewing tobacco, many men and women chew a
concoction called tamil, pan shun. This consists of a small section of
raw areca nut sprinkled with slaked lime, then folded in a green tamil
leaf. This is chewed by many India natives. This concoction results in
bright red spitum which colors the teeth and mouth lining. It is an
unsightly mess, but intestinal parasites such as tapeworms cannot
survive in this toxic mixture. On my first sighting of these
red-mouthed people my first impression was they had bleeding teeth.

It seemed that most of the drivers assigned to me indulged in this
dirty habit and Sandy was no exception.

During the last few weeks of my tour of duty in Assam, the daily news
told of the restlessness along the Northeast Frontier Agency border in
which area we were travelling. China and India were in conflict
regarding the boundary line. China had already gobbled up Tibet and
seemed to be intent of acquiring this part of India.

Do you remember our farewell dinner for you and your mother last year
just before you two returned to the U.S.A.?

The cook for that banquet had served as guide for three groups of
refugees fleeing Tibet to India. Now new flare-ups of Chinese
aggression are frequent news items.

We met a large convoy of Indian Military men this afternoon. We had to
wait for their passage since the narrow roadway was not wide enough to
allow two-way traffic. I noted the military vehicles were all U.S.A.
manufactured. Several vehicles were loaded with big guns.

About three o'clock this afternoon we reached a small village. Our
spare tire was slowly leaking air. We had already punctured another
tire. We could anticipate more trouble. There was not a garage or
service station in this remote village. Nearly everyone rode bicycles.
The narrow unpaved streets were dusty. People shared them with big
Brahma Bulls. Red underfed cows swarmed the street freely and a herd
of goats scurried along the narrow roadway. No passage for cars.

We parked three blocks away from a bicycle repair shop and rolled two
tires to it for repair. The repair men only had flat-iron hand tools
made from broken springs of automobiles. The source of air was a hand
powered bicycle pump. Can you imagine the ordeal required to inflate
two big jeep truck tires? It was apparent that we would be delayed
several hours. Most of the repair shops in this frontier country want
to keep a jeep tire all day long for repair.

My driver stayed at the tire repair shop during the flat-fixing
procedure. I walked around the village going from one dingy shop to
another in search of local items of trade or novelties. The bazaar had
small open-air bins. The meat was covered with banana leaves in a
home-woven basket for refrigeration. Two hours had passed when a local
tribal Indian tapped me on the shoulder and motioned for me to follow
him. "Now what?" I pondered. Where did he want me to go? I'm not eager
to follow strangers in a strange country, however, he made me
understand the druggist wanted to see me.

The pharmacist was from Pakistan. He spoke good English. He began with
an apology. "I'm sorry you have been delayed in this little village. I
know Americans cannot eat our native food. Also, I know you must have
a clean, safe place to sleep and rest. I have prepared a bedroom for
you in my home nearby. You are welcome to stay overnight. I want you
to be comfortable."

"Oh what a wonderful gesture and invitation. I shall never forget your
concern and kindness. We have only thirty-five miles to go today.
Hopefully the two tires will be finished in time for us to continue on
to North Lankinpur."

Thirty minutes later, my driver found me. He was elated. Two young men
rolled the two repaired tires to the jeep. One tire was mounted on the
jeep wheel and the other bolted on for a spare.

We reached the missionary headquarters near North Lankinpur, our
destination, shortly after dark.

Our plan to open the wilderness clinic early the next morning were
agreed upon, then we had a peaceful night of rest.

With love, 
Dad

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