Hi Richard, >From what I understand of grape vines and rot development of the grapes it needs more space than what a chisel plow will do, ( grape rots need to have their tap rot go down 6/8 feet? ) also you are only touching the surface of the hardpan digging will do a real trench, topsoil on the other hand and the problem that I have created with digging the trench, I Don't know god or bad ?? >No need to resort to explosives (gelignite) What is "gelignite" it sound like a stone ??
Thanks Per Garp/NH, Loudon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Kalin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 10:20 AM Subject: Perfect Orchard > We have the same stoney hardpan here in Hollis NH. A 2-foot deep chisel plow > will get rid of it and leave all the topsoil in place. No need to resort to > explosives (gelignite). > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter Michael Bacchus" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 4:49 AM > Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard ?? > > > > Dear Per > > Now that you have given your location and soil description > it > > is easier to make a suggestion. > > Have your soil chemistry analyzed by Brookside Lab. or > similar > > then work on balancing your cation exchange to suit grape vines. > > Drain as mentioned and form up windrows to plant on. grape roots like to > be > > warm. I would be a bit cautious about sheep and goat manure as they tend > to > > make the ground harder, or at least that is my experience. Horse manure > has > > the most soil loosening effect, followed by cow. This is of course to be > > composted and prepped. Then be generous with the Horn manure and barrel > > compost. You need to get the soil life going which means you may need to > > drain to avoid waterlogging at any time. > > If you really do need to loosen the subsoil mechanically I > > suggest that you look at gelignite, I have seen it used to good effect > under > > trees that were stunted by hard pan. In this way the topsoil would remain > on > > top. > > Go and have a look at what Steven Storch is doing and > perhaps > > get some advice from him. > > Best of luck, > > Peter. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "COYOTEHILLFARM" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 1:36 PM > > Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard ?? > > > > > > > I appreciate this comments, > > > > > > We are here permanently, Hardpan is very common in the Eastern US, in NH > > > winery's are Uncommon. > > > > > > Gypsum has been suggested in the past but only a hand full of it in for > > each > > > grape planting. > > > > > > Hardpan in the NH is a sand like product with a bunch of stones large to > > > small, it act much like quicksand when water soaked, water have a hard > > time > > > penetrate it and that's way I need to drain my fields as grapes do not > > like > > > wet feet's. > > > We do not have any clay, as far as what I have seen. > > > > > > On top of the Hard pan we have 1 to 2 feet's of good top soil Some time > > more > > > some time less pending on location and past cow manure deposit. > > > > > > We have consider ripping the hardpan whit a 2-3 foot "Hardpan buster" > type > > > of equipment but have fund that it is harder to do a good job of that > type > > > of equipment, a 3x3 dug ditch seems more functional. ( But more costly) > > and > > > then the gypsum can do it's job !? > > > > > > I plan to cover the rows with wood chips, (and add goat and sheep > > manure)as > > > a soil help and to prevent grass and competition. (I like to see > chickens > > > and Guinea fouls in the fields) > > > > > > Please describe the full BD cycle. > > > > > > Thanks > > > Per Garp/NH > > > > > > >