Dear Per,
Here are some address details for the Brookside
Laboritories:-
e-mail address for the brookside lab director Mark Flock is
[EMAIL PROTECTED] .
snail-mail P.O. Box 456 New Knoxville, OH 45871 fax (419)
753 2949.
I hope this information will help you along the way.
Peter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "COYOTEHILLFARM" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 25, 2002 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard ?? Brookside Lab
> Brookside Lab, can you please provide contact address/email
>
> Thanks
> Per Garp/ NH ( sorry i'm running 500+ email late)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Michael Bacchus" <pbaBrookside [EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 04:49 AM
> Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard ??
>
>
> > Dear Per
> > Now that you have given your location and soil description
> it
> > is easier to make a suggestion.
> > Have your soil chemistry analyzed by Brookside Lab. or
> similar
> > then work on balancing your cation exchange to suit grape vines.
> > Drain as mentioned and form up windrows to plant on. grape roots like to
> be
> > warm. I would be a bit cautious about sheep and goat manure as they tend
> to
> > make the ground harder, or at least that is my experience. Horse manure
> has
> > the most soil loosening effect, followed by cow. This is of course to be
> > composted and prepped. Then be generous with the Horn manure and barrel
> > compost. You need to get the soil life going which means you may need to
> > drain to avoid waterlogging at any time.
> > If you really do need to loosen the subsoil mechanically I
> > suggest that you look at gelignite, I have seen it used to good effect
> under
> > trees that were stunted by hard pan. In this way the topsoil would
remain
> on
> > top.
> > Go and have a look at what Steven Storch is doing and
> perhaps
> > get some advice from him.
> > Best of luck,
> > Peter.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "COYOTEHILLFARM" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 1:36 PM
> > Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard ??
> >
> >
> > > I appreciate this comments,
> > >
> > > We are here permanently, Hardpan is very common in the Eastern US, in
NH
> > > winery's are Uncommon.
> > >
> > > Gypsum has been suggested in the past but only a hand full of it in
for
> > each
> > > grape planting.
> > >
> > > Hardpan in the NH is a sand like product with a bunch of stones large
to
> > > small, it act much like quicksand when water soaked, water have a hard
> > time
> > > penetrate it and that's way I need to drain my fields as grapes do not
> > like
> > > wet feet's.
> > > We do not have any clay, as far as what I have seen.
> > >
> > > On top of the Hard pan we have 1 to 2 feet's of good top soil Some
time
> > more
> > > some time less pending on location and past cow manure deposit.
> > >
> > > We have consider ripping the hardpan whit a 2-3 foot "Hardpan buster"
> type
> > > of equipment but have fund that it is harder to do a good job of that
> type
> > > of equipment, a 3x3 dug ditch seems more functional. ( But more
costly)
> > and
> > > then the gypsum can do it's job !?
> > >
> > > I plan to cover the rows with wood chips, (and add goat and sheep
> > manure)as
> > > a soil help and to prevent grass and competition. (I like to see
> chickens
> > > and Guinea fouls in the fields)
> > >
> > > Please describe the full BD cycle.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Per Garp/NH
> > >
> > >
> >
>
