Thanks for the informative post. And congrats, Hans on your sub-zero ride! india
WeAreAllMechanics.com [email protected] Stay connected- Follow WAAM on Facebook<http://www.facebook.com/We.Are.All.Mechanics> On Sat, Jan 25, 2014 at 7:17 PM, Mark Shahan <[email protected]> wrote: > Hans, > > Dave had it right, most sticky shifting is due to water that has condensed > in or seeped into the cable housing. The classic symptom is the shifting > is fine until the temperature gets low enough that the lubricant/water mix > freezes, then the shifting becomes very difficult or impossible. Shifting > will improve when it gets warm again. The solution is not no lubrication > or new cable and housing as I have had this happen with a brand new cable > and cable housing. > > Instead, disconnect the cable and remove it from the housing. Next, blow > out the cable housing with WD-40 to remove the water. Let the WD-40 drain > from the housing and then add a light oil to the housing until the oil just > starts to drip from the low end of the cable housing. Reinstall the > cable. This procedure not only removes the water but also fills the cable > housing with oil to prevent the re-entry of water. > > For winter use, my favorite oil is Dumonde Tech Lite chain oil which is > really slippery and makes for crisp, clean shifts even in sub-zero weather. > Do NOT use grease because grease gets too thick in extreme cold (<0 F) > causing sticky shifting. The problem of sticky shifting usually appears > after a wet sloppy thaw followed by a hard freeze. Not only can water seep > into the cable housing but water can condense in the cable housing. > Another solution is the Gore Ride On sealed cable system if you can find it > and afford it. I am currently using the Ride On system for my rear brake; > so far so good. > > Regarding internal geared systems, they are a mixed blessing. The up side > is that you have fewer gears to clean and no derailleurs to malfunction. I > have been using internal geared hubs in the winter since 1997, first a > Shimano Nexus 7 then a SRAM S7, and could probably write a book on the > subject. Both suffer from the fact that the right side bearing is not > sealed and is prone to water infiltration and corrosion. The first three > years I used the Nexus system, the dealer had to replace the hub or the hub > internals after each winter due to corrosion. Then I started lubing the > hub myself trying different greases and greasing techniques. This greatly > improved longevity but required the hub to be stripped down and regreased > after each winter. When I started using the SRAM S7, I started using my > own grease and greasing technique after the first year with somewhat better > results than with the Nexus 7 but still requiring the yearly strip down and > regreasing. The S7 will be replaced after this winter probably with a > Shimano Alfine 8 which is suppose to be better sealed to the elements. > > If you get an internal geared hub for winter use, replace or have the bike > shop replace the grease in the hub. The manufacturers grease is not > designed for sub-zero weather resulting in much increased pedaling effort > and poor shifting. This year I am using Lubriplate MAG-1 grease (purchased > from Motion Industries on the east side) which is designed for low > temperature use. It is by far the best winter grease I have ever used. > Some people will grease the gears but use oil on the internal shifting > mechanism. I tried this last year. This helps with sifting but the oil > thins out the right side bearing grease destroying the grease seal I try to > maintain. The result was severe corrosion of the right side bearing and > hence the need for a new hub after this year. I might also add that a > single speed isn't really an option for me. My ride is a hilly 5.5 miles > one way. > > I may be an extreme case for an internal hub. I ride through anything and > I ride hard. However, I have talked to a number of bike shop mechanics who > have seen the same sorts of problems and I have read many accounts on-line > detailing the same corrosion problems not only in winter riding but also in > the rainy Northwest. > > Hope this helps and good luck. > > Mark Shahan > > > On Fri, Jan 24, 2014 at 12:35 AM, Hans Noeldner <[email protected] > > wrote: > >> Just finished lowest-temperature ride thus far in my life: -8 degrees >> (OK, that’s probably kinda wimpy for some of you…) Only 8 miles – from >> Fitchburg Library to V Oregon (it was 4 deg and sunny on my ride there). >> Main problem was that the rear derailleur cable got sticky so it wouldn’t’ >> shift to smaller gears on rear cluster. So every now and then I’d get off >> and wiggle it and then it would shift OK for a while. Plus the usual >> problems with fogging and difficulty of getting facemask to cover cheeks. >> No manufacturer has that worked out yet. Sinuses feeling a bit raw now >> that I’m home. Heat Holder socks inside Rocky winter boots = warm feet! >> And I just love my Canadian Shooter’s Mittens – my hands actually got >> sweaty. Without Moose Mitts. >> >> >> >> All in all, a good ride – I feel like I am still “manly”. >> >> >> >> Any thoughts on the cable lubrication business? I usually use T9 on >> them. Also wondering whether any of you have experience with internal gear >> hubs in cold weather like this. >> >> >> >> Hey! It’s good to be alive! Keep crankin’. >> >> >> >> Hans Noeldner >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Bikies mailing list >> [email protected] >> http://lists.danenet.org/listinfo.cgi/bikies-danenet.org >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Bikies mailing list > [email protected] > http://lists.danenet.org/listinfo.cgi/bikies-danenet.org > >
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