I think this is why I said what i did about resistance soldering.
I remember the urging I got from a family member and the research that Tom 
did lead me to believe that it really wasn't going to work for me.
I apologize for not specifying "that  Cold Solder thing advertised on TV: 
as the other resistance soldering info we've seen in the last few days is 
much more commercial that some Ronco product.
Sorry and thanks.
I may actually see if my Weller dealer has some multi-tap resistance type 
I may work as I am tired of the way I have to do it being applied to all 
things.


On Tue, 12 Dec 2006, Tom Fowle wrote:

> Lenny,
> the "cold heat" soldering device is what might be called a resistance 
> soldering
> device.
>
> The tip is two carbon pointed thingies with a small gap between them.
> You put them against the joint so as to get a good contact and the current
> from a batch of AA cells flows through work and it gets hot.
>
> It is quite difficult to get a good connection.
> there is an LED on the thing which is supposed to tell you
> when you've got a good connection but reading this with a light probe
> would take too many hands.
>
> It isn't an entirely bad idea, but should never be used on any solid state
> electronics as the sparks you will surely get while arranging a good contact
> will cause static discharges that will probably distroy any sensative
> electronics.
>
> We have one here and tried it and we're pretty experienced solderers
> and we didn't think much of it.
>
> I doubt it'd handle anything bigger than maybe number 18 AWG wire even if it
> worked.
>
> My sighted wife who is very good with a soldering iron, tried it
> and had also nothing good to say about it.
>
> Might work for some folks but I'd not spend the money.
>
> A medium pencil iron with a good stand which won't
> allow it to slip out is a good starter.
>
> Guns are also a pain for different reasons,
>
> Read our soldering series in the Smith-Kettlewell
> Technical File at:
> http://www.ski.org/rerc/sktf
>
> Tom
>
>


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