Dave, that is very interesting that you mention that. Does copper rust though? That is the one reason why I like plastic piping over copper is it rusted. I had one pipe so bad in an apartment that I came home one day and there was water all over the bathroom floor because there was a hole in the pipe and with running the tap and draining there was water going into the cubbord and onto the floor. It was messy. Blaine ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Andrus To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 9:00 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves
Hi Scott, I do not like those saddle valves as in my oppinion they do not let enough volume of water go through to properly run an ice maker. As Dale mentioned, putting in a t and from the t run the valve is the best. When I have had to do this, of course I don't do the sweating of the pipes but I do the rest. I usually then used 3/8 flexable copper. I prefer copper to plastic for several reasons, mainly because I think copper gives off less taste to the water than plastic. Dave A. Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the cross of Jesus Rev. Dave Andrus, Director Lutheran Blind Mission 888 215 2455 HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG -----Original Message----- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Howell Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 12:50 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves Folks, I am wondering if there is a valve made by Shark Bite or would have compression fittings. I do not know what it would be called, but let me describe the valve and the problem. Well first the problem. I heard a hissing noise from the fridge and we were about to leave the house, but I just couldn't leave it alone, I had to at least determine what the hissing sound was. So, finally I pulled the fridge out and am I glad I did. Yes, you probably guessed by now that the water line from the fridge to the basement had sprung a leak. A pin-hole leak, but a leak nevertheless. It was spitting water all over the place and I'm not sure how long it had been doing that, but I think I caught it early enough that it was not to large of a mess to clean up. Unfortunately this meant I had to cut the water to the entire house because the saddle valve had also failed to function when I turned it off. So, off to the box store and back home with a very very heavy, duty water line and included a new saddle valve. THe saddle valve was in my opinion a piece of fecal matter and I have little confidence in it holding up. I'm sure I'll get all sorts of opinions about saddle valves, but in my mind they do not thrill me very much. So, what I would much rather have is a valve that is of course a ball valve that would go inline. I would like to be able to cut out that piece of pipe where the saddle valve is, install a valve that would have a connection, which I could attach the water line too. Now, it may require more than what I am looking to do because I suspect to even install a mini branch to just accommodate the water line would be more complicated. I do have the option of adding another flexible water line and running that from under the kitchen sink with a T-splitter, run the water line along the basement ceiling, and back up to the fridge and I may end up doing this. Of course this means connecting to hoses and that is not a difficult problem either, just more work and more effort to be sure I tie things up to prevent anyone from possibly hitting it with something and damaging the line. Either way I may end up doing this and use a SHark connector to just replace that section of the line where there is that small hole. However, I thought I would ask if there is some sort of splitter I could put into the line that would have some sort of ball valve I could use to shut off the water to the fridge, but not the rest of the downstream line. Also, one other question. I despariately need to replace the old gate valves at the meeter, and there is one on either side of the meter. These things are leaking only when messed with, bu they are really rusty feeling and will fail at some point. I understand the Shark valves may be used as well. Of of course I need to get someone to come and turn off the water at the street unless I could find a tool to do it myself. However, more important, how can I be sure I know the size of the pipe coming off the meeter? I am assuming it is 3/4 off the meeter and probably reduces to 3/4 at some point. The gent at the HD said to measure the pipe's outside diameter and that makes sense if I can use a tailor's tape, which I have. Otherwise, how could I determine this? I sure can't cut and then measure because that will never fly with the spouse. grin tnx, [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]