THanks, that is what I wanted, a T connection. Just could not seem to recall what I wanted. Well yeah, I think I even have one of those caliper things around here. In any case, I am not fond of the saddle valve and considering how this one is designed, it's got to go.
Thanks, On Mar 7, 2010, at 2:06 PM, Dale Leavens wrote: > Replacing the saddle valve should be fine. You may prefer to buy a higher > quality one but like you I am not all that thrilled with them. > > The correct way to do what you wish to do is to insert a 'T' connection then > a valve on the branch then on to the fridge. > > I don't have any experience with the bite fittings but certainly there are > compression 'T' fittings but they are not cheap.You will need to reduce out > of the valve to the much thinner flex line to the fridge. > > You can measure outside diameter with a caliper. You can make a caliper by > sliding a stick down one leg of a square keeping it parallel to the other leg > and when both contact the pipe at opposite sides you will have the diameter. > > Think that covers it. > > If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Scott Howell > To: [email protected] > Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 1:49 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves > > Folks, > > I am wondering if there is a valve made by Shark Bite or would have > compression fittings. I do not know what it would be called, but let me > describe the valve and the problem. Well first the problem. I heard a hissing > noise from the fridge and we were about to leave the house, but I just > couldn't leave it alone, I had to at least determine what the hissing sound > was. So, finally I pulled the fridge out and am I glad I did. Yes, you > probably guessed by now that the water line from the fridge to the basement > had sprung a leak. A pin-hole leak, but a leak nevertheless. It was spitting > water all over the place and I'm not sure how long it had been doing that, > but I think I caught it early enough that it was not to large of a mess to > clean up. Unfortunately this meant I had to cut the water to the entire house > because the saddle valve had also failed to function when I turned it off. > So, off to the box store and back home with a very very heavy, duty water > line and included a new saddle valve. THe saddle valve was in my opinion a > piece of fecal matter and I have little confidence in it holding up. I'm sure > I'll get all sorts of opinions about saddle valves, but in my mind they do > not thrill me very much. So, what I would much rather have is a valve that is > of course a ball valve that would go inline. I would like to be able to cut > out that piece of pipe where the saddle valve is, install a valve that would > have a connection, which I could attach the water line too. Now, it may > require more than what I am looking to do because I suspect to even install a > mini branch to just accommodate the water line would be more complicated. I > do have the option of adding another flexible water line and running that > from under the kitchen sink with a T-splitter, run the water line along the > basement ceiling, and back up to the fridge and I may end up doing this. Of > course this means connecting to hoses and that is not a difficult problem > either, just more work and more effort to be sure I tie things up to prevent > anyone from possibly hitting it with something and damaging the line. Either > way I may end up doing this and use a SHark connector to just replace that > section of the line where there is that small hole. However, I thought I > would ask if there is some sort of splitter I could put into the line that > would have some sort of ball valve I could use to shut off the water to the > fridge, but not the rest of the downstream line. > Also, one other question. I despariately need to replace the old gate valves > at the meeter, and there is one on either side of the meter. These things are > leaking only when messed with, bu they are really rusty feeling and will fail > at some point. I understand the Shark valves may be used as well. Of of > course I need to get someone to come and turn off the water at the street > unless I could find a tool to do it myself. However, more important, how can > I be sure I know the size of the pipe coming off the meeter? I am assuming it > is 3/4 off the meeter and probably reduces to 3/4 at some point. The gent at > the HD said to measure the pipe's outside diameter and that makes sense if I > can use a tailor's tape, which I have. Otherwise, how could I determine this? > I sure can't cut and then measure because that will never fly with the > spouse. grin > > tnx, > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Send any questions regarding list management to: [email protected] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [email protected]! 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