THanks, that is what I wanted, a T connection. Just could not seem to recall 
what I wanted. Well yeah, I think I even have one of those caliper things 
around here. In any case, I am not fond of the saddle valve and considering how 
this one is designed, it's got to go.

Thanks,
On Mar 7, 2010, at 2:06 PM, Dale Leavens wrote:

> Replacing the saddle valve should be fine. You may prefer to buy a higher 
> quality one but like you I am not all that thrilled with them.
> 
> The correct way to do what you wish to do is to insert a 'T' connection then 
> a valve on the branch then on to the fridge.
> 
> I don't have any experience with the bite fittings but certainly there are 
> compression 'T' fittings but they are not cheap.You will need to reduce out 
> of the valve to the much thinner flex line to the fridge.
> 
> You can measure outside diameter with a caliper. You can make a caliper by 
> sliding a stick down one leg of a square keeping it parallel to the other leg 
> and when both contact the pipe at opposite sides you will have the diameter.
> 
> Think that covers it.
> 
> If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Scott Howell 
> To: [email protected] 
> Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 1:49 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves
> 
> Folks,
> 
> I am wondering if there is a valve made by Shark Bite or would have 
> compression fittings. I do not know what it would be called, but let me 
> describe the valve and the problem. Well first the problem. I heard a hissing 
> noise from the fridge and we were about to leave the house, but I just 
> couldn't leave it alone, I had to at least determine what the hissing sound 
> was. So, finally I pulled the fridge out and am I glad I did. Yes, you 
> probably guessed by now that the water line from the fridge to the basement 
> had sprung a leak. A pin-hole leak, but a leak nevertheless. It was spitting 
> water all over the place and I'm not sure how long it had been doing that, 
> but I think I caught it early enough that it was not to large of a mess to 
> clean up. Unfortunately this meant I had to cut the water to the entire house 
> because the saddle valve had also failed to function when I turned it off. 
> So, off to the box store and back home with a very very heavy, duty water 
> line and included a new saddle valve. THe saddle valve was in my opinion a 
> piece of fecal matter and I have little confidence in it holding up. I'm sure 
> I'll get all sorts of opinions about saddle valves, but in my mind they do 
> not thrill me very much. So, what I would much rather have is a valve that is 
> of course a ball valve that would go inline. I would like to be able to cut 
> out that piece of pipe where the saddle valve is, install a valve that would 
> have a connection, which I could attach the water line too. Now, it may 
> require more than what I am looking to do because I suspect to even install a 
> mini branch to just accommodate the water line would be more complicated. I 
> do have the option of adding another flexible water line and running that 
> from under the kitchen sink with a T-splitter, run the water line along the 
> basement ceiling, and back up to the fridge and I may end up doing this. Of 
> course this means connecting to hoses and that is not a difficult problem 
> either, just more work and more effort to be sure I tie things up to prevent 
> anyone from possibly hitting it with something and damaging the line. Either 
> way I may end up doing this and use a SHark connector to just replace that 
> section of the line where there is that small hole. However, I thought I 
> would ask if there is some sort of splitter I could put into the line that 
> would have some sort of ball valve I could use to shut off the water to the 
> fridge, but not the rest of the downstream line.
> Also, one other question. I despariately need to replace the old gate valves 
> at the meeter, and there is one on either side of the meter. These things are 
> leaking only when messed with, bu they are really rusty feeling and will fail 
> at some point. I understand the Shark valves may be used as well. Of of 
> course I need to get someone to come and turn off the water at the street 
> unless I could find a tool to do it myself. However, more important, how can 
> I be sure I know the size of the pipe coming off the meeter? I am assuming it 
> is 3/4 off the meeter and probably reduces to 3/4 at some point. The gent at 
> the HD said to measure the pipe's outside diameter and that makes sense if I 
> can use a tailor's tape, which I have. Otherwise, how could I determine this? 
> I sure can't cut and then measure because that will never fly with the 
> spouse. grin
> 
> tnx,
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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