My son is in Germany, staying in an old castle.  The roof is clay tiles 
supported with very large beams.  My son told me that these beams were 
submerged in mud several months before use in this structure.  They did it to 
keep bugs out of the wood.  A beam did crack this winter and had to be 
replaced, due to a fungus called sponge.
Reading what you folks are saying about heat treated wood, the soaking in mud 
must remove the resins. 
John
http://WhiteCane.org
http://BlindWoodWorker.com
http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
http://anellos.ws

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ron Yearns 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 10:25 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] baked lumber


    
  Hey definately not just kiln dried. This is a new product to me. Never too 
old to learn.
  Ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 11:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor

  For the next wishing well planter that I make I plan to use baked lumber. 
  Baked lumber is heated to I think about 400 degrees. This destroys all of 
  the sugar in the wood making it insect proof and rot resistant
  Here is some more information from Baley wood products the saw mill from 
  which I purchase all of my wood.
  http://www.baileywp.com/html/thermo.html
  What is Thermo-Treated Wood?

  Thermo-Treatment is the process of gradually heating any species of lumber 
  to temperatures of 410 - 450º F in a special chamber that has had the oxygen 
  completely removed from the system. These conditions are needed to prevent 
  the wood from combusting, which takes place at temperatures over 300º F.

  Why Use Thermo-Treated Wood?

  a.. Durability: 25 year life span can be expected for exterior 
  applications

  b.. Moisture Repulsion: The process seals the cellular structure of the 
  wood making it impervious to water and moisture

  c.. Stabilizaton: Swelling and shrinkage is reduced as well as cracking 
  and checking

  d.. Color: Consistent brown color all the way through to the very center 
  of the board

  e.. Chemical Free: Chemicals are not used in the Thermo-Treatment process 
  which makes this product an environmentally friendly alternative.
  Milling:

  Sawing: Sawing does not differ much from sawing untreated wood. Because of 
  the stabilization from the heat treatment, distortion of the wood is greatly 
  reduced after sawing. Since the Thermo-Treatment eliminates the resins in 
  the wood, machines require little cleaning after milling.

  Planing: Machines well using all normal methods. Sharp Cutters provide the 
  best results, as with all woods.

  Milling: Blades must be sharp, otherwise tearout may occur. Milling across 
  the grain may increase tear out. Tearout is most likely to take place at the 
  end of a board where there is a thick piece of wood behind the blade. 
  Careful planning should be taken into consideration.

  Sanding: Material sands generally the same as untreated wood. Due to the 
  absence of resins in the wood that has been crystalized in the process, the 
  sand paper does not load up like it does with untreated woods.

  Surface treatment: Use surface treatment that will protect against Ultra 
  Violet radiation in order to prevent color changes and surface shakes. Take 
  into account that Thermo-Treated wood has lower water absorption than normal 
  wood and needs a longer time to penetrate the wood. Oil-based substances 
  work just as well as they would with normal wood.

  Gluing: Longer Processing time is needed for the glue to be absorbed by the 
  Thermo-treated wood, especially when using water based glues. Because the 
  Thermo-Treated wood has a low moisture absorption, penetration and drying 
  time of the glue is increased.

  Screwing: Heat treatment reduces the splitting strength of the wood. The use 
  of self-tapping or predrilling hardware is recommended. Also, the use of 
  stainless steel screws with less threads and countersunk heads is 
  recommended for external use and in humid environments. We recommend not 
  using galvanized fasteners as they tend to leave bleed marks on the woods 
  surface over time.

  Nailing: It is recommended to use a compressed air gun with depth control 
  since hammer contact with the wood promotes splitting. To reduce the risk of 
  discoloration from metal nails, the use of stainless steel nails is 
  recommended. Small oval head nails help to reduce the risk of splitting as 
  well.

  For more information on thermo-treated woods, please visit this website.

  Home

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Ron Yearns" <ryea...@sbcglobal.net>
  To: <blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 12:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor

  OK I'm biting . White is bakeed lumber?
  Ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: chiliblindman
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 9:27 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor

  You might consider the newer baked lumber. It will take moisture extremes 
  and not rot or expand and shrink.
  .........bob

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