My son is in Germany, staying in an old castle. The roof is clay tiles
supported with very large beams. My son told me that these beams were
submerged in mud several months before use in this structure. They did it to
keep bugs out of the wood. A beam did crack this winter and had to be
replaced, due to a fungus called sponge.
Reading what you folks are saying about heat treated wood, the soaking in mud
must remove the resins.
John
http://WhiteCane.org
http://BlindWoodWorker.com
http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
http://anellos.ws
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 10:25 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] baked lumber
Hey definately not just kiln dried. This is a new product to me. Never too
old to learn.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Lenny McHugh
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor
For the next wishing well planter that I make I plan to use baked lumber.
Baked lumber is heated to I think about 400 degrees. This destroys all of
the sugar in the wood making it insect proof and rot resistant
Here is some more information from Baley wood products the saw mill from
which I purchase all of my wood.
http://www.baileywp.com/html/thermo.html
What is Thermo-Treated Wood?
Thermo-Treatment is the process of gradually heating any species of lumber
to temperatures of 410 - 450º F in a special chamber that has had the oxygen
completely removed from the system. These conditions are needed to prevent
the wood from combusting, which takes place at temperatures over 300º F.
Why Use Thermo-Treated Wood?
a.. Durability: 25 year life span can be expected for exterior
applications
b.. Moisture Repulsion: The process seals the cellular structure of the
wood making it impervious to water and moisture
c.. Stabilizaton: Swelling and shrinkage is reduced as well as cracking
and checking
d.. Color: Consistent brown color all the way through to the very center
of the board
e.. Chemical Free: Chemicals are not used in the Thermo-Treatment process
which makes this product an environmentally friendly alternative.
Milling:
Sawing: Sawing does not differ much from sawing untreated wood. Because of
the stabilization from the heat treatment, distortion of the wood is greatly
reduced after sawing. Since the Thermo-Treatment eliminates the resins in
the wood, machines require little cleaning after milling.
Planing: Machines well using all normal methods. Sharp Cutters provide the
best results, as with all woods.
Milling: Blades must be sharp, otherwise tearout may occur. Milling across
the grain may increase tear out. Tearout is most likely to take place at the
end of a board where there is a thick piece of wood behind the blade.
Careful planning should be taken into consideration.
Sanding: Material sands generally the same as untreated wood. Due to the
absence of resins in the wood that has been crystalized in the process, the
sand paper does not load up like it does with untreated woods.
Surface treatment: Use surface treatment that will protect against Ultra
Violet radiation in order to prevent color changes and surface shakes. Take
into account that Thermo-Treated wood has lower water absorption than normal
wood and needs a longer time to penetrate the wood. Oil-based substances
work just as well as they would with normal wood.
Gluing: Longer Processing time is needed for the glue to be absorbed by the
Thermo-treated wood, especially when using water based glues. Because the
Thermo-Treated wood has a low moisture absorption, penetration and drying
time of the glue is increased.
Screwing: Heat treatment reduces the splitting strength of the wood. The use
of self-tapping or predrilling hardware is recommended. Also, the use of
stainless steel screws with less threads and countersunk heads is
recommended for external use and in humid environments. We recommend not
using galvanized fasteners as they tend to leave bleed marks on the woods
surface over time.
Nailing: It is recommended to use a compressed air gun with depth control
since hammer contact with the wood promotes splitting. To reduce the risk of
discoloration from metal nails, the use of stainless steel nails is
recommended. Small oval head nails help to reduce the risk of splitting as
well.
For more information on thermo-treated woods, please visit this website.
Home
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Yearns" <ryea...@sbcglobal.net>
To: <blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor
OK I'm biting . White is bakeed lumber?
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: chiliblindman
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor
You might consider the newer baked lumber. It will take moisture extremes
and not rot or expand and shrink.
.........bob
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