--- In [email protected], Adrian Evans <adr...@...> wrote: > > Thanks again for your further info ( and link ) > > Followed John's Link, that looks like the beast. > > Will take a few photo's and have a hunt around, at least I'm at my mooring > so have a car to hand. > > Will check around for plumbing suppliers in the area, currently at Priory > Marina Bedford, just had the river festival, failed to attend to due to > faffing around with boat!, but heard it all from here and saw the fly-pasts > Dakota looked good!. > > We can work around the prob for now, especially as we are moored. > > Thanks again for your help, if/when I see you remind me of the beer tokens ( > selective memory ;-) ). > > Adrian > nb Lena H, River Gt Ouse, Bedford > > On 18 July 2010 20:52, John Clark <john...@...> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Adrian Evans wrote: > > > Thanks for your suggestions, > > > > > > Bob, > > > > > > It's not draining out of the Bilge pump, I know where that drains, on the > > > starboard side, this drains out of the port side, which is near the > > > Calorifier ( now you/or everybody else come to mention it). > > > > > > Everyone else, > > > > > > PRV, is that pressure release valve? > > > > > > Big (ish) Red thing on top of calorifier, well I touched it, no I didn't > > > thump it or hit it with a hammer, now it's 'banging', I would say it was > > > releasing poss due to pressure ;-) as it bangs water spurts out of the > > port > > > side overflow(? maybe). > > > > > > Need a new PRV?, need a new calorifier? ( I hope not ) > > > > > > How much? difficult to fit? > > > > That's the chap. Before you replace it, it might just be worth checking > > that the pressure gauge attached to it (assuming there is one) isn't > > reading 3 bar or more: that might indicate a failed pressure cut-out > > switch on the pump. As Brian said, giving the top a thorough twiddle > > might help it reseat. If it has been weeping slowly (sometimes happens > > if the engine is running hot and no-one is running the hot tap) you can > > get a build up of scale on the sealing faces. > > > > Otherwise, the last one I bought cost about a fiver (so about ten now?) > > and a ten minute job to fit with an adjustable wrench, some PTFE tape > > and some Boss White. > > > > M/ > > > > -- > > Martin Phillips > > > > Pressure Relief valve from ASAP Supplies .... £8.77 = VAT > > > > > > http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/pressure-relief-valve/hotpot-pressure-relief-valves > > > > John nb Charlotte Rose > > > > > > __________________________________________________________ > > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/ > > Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > -- > Adrian > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
Hi Adrian, BEFORE you spend money on replacement parts (PRV etc), I have it on good authority that the "Pressure ON/OFF" switch on the water pump itself, is often the culprit. If the pressure switch on the pump itself fails, you will have the same fault conditions as the PRV is doing its job by opening up due to excess pressure in the domestic system. This is my bet. I am pretty sure this is your problem! An easy way to check this - > > Remove the outlet pipe from the water pump feeding your domestic system. The fitting on this usually has a "Slide" lock holding the special connection of the pipe to the pump. This is slid in an upwards direction - sometimes a bit tricky, especially if you have not come across this before. SUGGESTION: Check the pump make Check the diameter of the outlet water pipe (15mm or 22mm?) Go to a chandlery shop Look at a new pump (Same make), to see what you have to do Purchase (Or scrounge) a small length of 15mm or 22mm pipe to suit your pump. Purchase a stop end fitting Purchase a replacement fitting for your pump outlet. Then put the stop end pipe on the outlet of your existing pump. When this has been done, switch on you pump. This should switch off almost immediately. If it doesn't, or if the pump slowly slows down because of the excess pressure on the outlet side, (Pump working too hard), you know what the problem is. (Pump pressure switch, not PRV). Now, I haven't had this happen to me personally, so I don't know if an electrical pump pressure switch can be a "Do It Yourself" job. If you want further information on this, Email Kathy, at Stone Boatbuilding Chandlery shop. She is very knowledgeable and most helpful. Kathy's Email address is: ### [email protected] ### I hope this info. helps. Regards, ~Allan~
