I did the conversion to
12" B-body brakes, using Hotchkis parts. (upper A-arms, springs (all 4), their
pre-machined lower ball-joint, tie-rod sleeves, and the non-stock inner/out
tie-rods.). I used a 1.25" sway bar from a 2nd-gen F-body that I
bought on eBay. Yes, they really do fit. Spindles came from an '86
full-size Cadillac. I went to the parts store and ordered brake rotors
from a '90 Camaro with HD brakes (the 1LE brakes in Chevy-speak, NAPA part#
85994). I ordered calipers, brake pads, grease seals, and inner/outer
wheel bearings for an '86 Caprice (same as Cadillac). I also ordered
a master cylinder for a '70 Chevelle with disc brakes. I bought new disc
brake dust shields from my local Chevy dealer. GM Part #'s 344023,
344024. I used Wagner F98912 flexible brake hoses to hook up to the
calipers.
I cannot stress enough
the HUGE improvement there is in braking. I swapped from manual drums
(to manual discs) and the difference is night and day. Swapping from
non-power to power shouldn't complicate things too much, but it wasn't a
priority for me since I was used to non-power brakes. There is also a HUGE
improvement in handling too, but it comes at the sacrifice of ride
quality. I'd love to ride in a someone's car that did the brake swap, but
kept stock springs.
I have a complete parts
list (including the prices I paid) in Excel format if anyone is interested in
seeing what the total costs are. I did the swap in my garage, mostly by
myself.
1) Be prepared to replace
all the front brake lines. The one going to the passenger front wheel
might be a little difficult with the engine in. My engine was out when I
did the conversion.
2) The proportioning
valve: some have said they didnt change it and it works fine. My
life, as well as my passengers, are worth more than the $130 Master Power
charges for a disc/drum proportioning valve and mounting bracket. I spent
the extra money and don't regret it one bit. No, it doesn't look stock and
I pretty much had to re-plumb all the front brakes and splice into the line
going to the rears.
3) Since you're taking
the entire front suspension off, now is the time to replace the control arm
bushings. If you are going to use Polyurethane bushings (I used Energy
Suspension) GREASE them once, twice, and then a third time. If you are not
liberal with the grease, they WILL squeak. Ask me how I
know.
4) Getting the springs in
and out is the most difficult part of the job. As I mentioned, I replaced
the stock springs with Hotchkis springs, which were notably shorter than the
stock units, so re-assembly was easier for me. You'll need some sort of
spring compressor to put it back together, but I dont know what kind. This
is the part of the job where you definately want someone there helping
you.
5) The Camaro 1LE brake
rotors come with metric studs. While I shudder at the thought of
metric-size stuff on my 1970 Chevelle, it didnt seem worth the money having them
re-drilled for American studs. I bought metric lug nuts for a couple
dollars.
5) This is not a
cheap swap. I spent almost $1500 for parts doing this swap. At $500,
the a-arms are the single biggest expense. All 4 springs were $270, and
the rotors were about $140 for the pair. The rest is a lot of nickel and
dime stuff, but it adds up. I live in Ohio, so my prices include local
sales tax.
If anyone has questions,
feel free to ask here, or email me privately, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
-Dave, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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- [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help Kyle Bennett
- RE: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help John Nasta
- RE: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help Brad Waller
- Re: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help Capt Crunch
- Re: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help Rodney.
- RE: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help Brad Waller
- RE: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help -- brad @ wi... Dave Studly
- RE: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help -- brad ... Brad Waller
- Re: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help -- yes, i did th... Dave Studly
- Re: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help -- yes, i di... Kyle Bennett