John,
Definitely replace as much as you can while it is all apart. You will agree
after you get that inner fender finally unbolted. I didn't take my inner
completely out. I loosened it enough to get my arm and a wrench through to
reach the hard to get places. I'll tell you what, I got a set of those
wratcheting box end wrenches for Christmas...They were a God-send on this
project. Easy to find nuts with and not bulky like socket wrenches.
Steve
>
> From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2005/04/09 Sat PM 01:49:08 EDT
> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <Chevelle-list@chevelles.net>
> Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] heater core
>
> Thanks Rick. Mine is set up for A/C too. I had never heard of removing the
> inner fender w/o removing the fender, but I'll try it that way.
>
> I realized that I should probably replace the blower motor too as long as I
> have everything apart. Right now it doesn't work. I'll have too see if it's
> even getting power. It should be because the wiring harness is new (although
> I guess the relay could be bad, I don't know...). Even if I can get the
> current motor to work, I'd figure it's probably a good idea to replace it
> while I have everything apart.
>
> John Nasta
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rick Schaefer
> Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 1:01 PM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] heater core
>
> I don't believe that is correct John. It would probably be easier if
> you remove the inner fender, but the outer fender does not need to be
> removed. If you've never removed the inner fender, its not hard but
> can be a pain.
>
> Soak the captured nuts with PB Blaster, remove the battery and
> anything attached to the drivers side inner fender. Wheel must be
> removed. There are 15-20 bolts holding the inner in place. 2 with
> large flat washers on back wall, 2 with large cup washers on top (go
> into the fender ) , several in front near battery - access from
> underneath. I replaced all of the bolts & nut plates the first time
> I removed the inner fender and have had no problems with them since.
>
> On my 72 with Air, I had to remove the passenger compartment heating
> box to get to the heater core. As I recall (over 10 years ago) the
> stud/nut combo that hold the box in place are on the motor side of the
> firewall. Removing the inner fender allowed easy access to several
> of these studs/nuts. I don't think that I had to remove the
> fiberglass "suitcase" on the motor side, but may have.
>
> On Apr 9, 2005 11:36 AM, John Nasta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > I finally bought a heater core for my 69, and it's my understanding that
> you
> > have to take the fender off to get to it. Is that correct? If so, would it
> > be easier to disconnect at the radiator support bushings and the 2 main
> > bolts at the back of each fender and take the whole nose off? I know that
> it
> > would require disconnecting headlight wiring, the battery, etc. but the
> > fender has so many bolts, and then I'd have to worry about lining it back
> > up.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > John Nasta
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Rick Schaefer
> 72 TPI El Camino
>
>
>
