Replacing Windows
Bob
Very well done description of what we did when we replaced windows 6
years ago. Used the Sikaflex 295. Predrilled holes in each corner of
the acrylic to hold in place while curing. Screwed in new window
until cured -- removed and backfilled holes with sealant. Very
important to do while on the hard so there is no movement of the
boat. Also to have correct temperature and humidity and materials
within shelf life. Takes about a week for it to cure enough to remove
the screws. Sikaflex web site has great detailed instructions. Look
great and no leaks so far
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
*Robert Abbott
*Sent:* Friday, October 12, 2012 8:24 AM
*To:* secondwind...@comcast.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Stus-List Replacing Windows
Paul:
I posted this earlier on the list.....trusting it will help
Bob Abbott AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax. N.S.
Our 1984 - 32 had original side cabin windows that leaked.....no matter
what I tried to stop the leaks, it didn't work. The last straw was when
we put new upholstery on the boat in 2009....I couldn't put up with
leaks any more.
So in the Spring 2010, while the boat was still under the white
shrinkwrap cover, the decision was made to install new windows. I first
asked some of the contractors around the boatyard what they would charge
to do the job.....most said they wouldn't do it because the windows
don't have frames and/or screws.....two problems for the
contractors....without frames and/or screws, the job is more time
consuming and hard to provide an estimate of time, and second, without
frames and/or screws, they can't guarantee the windows will stay in
place. I must warn you, this is a time consuming job.
Find a source for your new windows....make sure they will cut the new
ones for you.....take your old ones to be used as templates. I used the
same material (acrylic) and color as the old windows.
To remove the old windows (OWs), I took a narrow putty knife and cut
about an inch off the blade and then sharpened the blade with a file.
From the inside, I cut out each window with the putty knife and a
hammer. Three windows came out without incident.....then shit happened
on the port, forward window......I got the sides and bottom cut but I
couldn't easily cut the top of that window. The original adhesive C&C
used was two part plexus and after 25 years it hardens like resin.....as
careful as I was I still managed to push the bottom of the window out
causing the top to come loose and take a strip of gelcoat with it.
Another repair job and another story, and another reason why the
contractors don't like to provide an estimate on these jobs......you
don't know for sure what you are getting yourself in for.
OWs out...cleaned them up and took them to Sabic Polymer to have new
windows cut.....same thickness, material, color. The new windows (NWs)
will have paper on both sides....don't remove the paper.
Now to clean up the frames....the prep is very important....I used a
drummel tool with a fine bit to remove most of the old adhesive, then a
palm sander, then hand sanded. Filled any imperfections in the frame
with polyster resin bought at an automotive store. When the frames are
cleaned, it is time to place the NWs into them (dry, no adhesive) to
determine the actual fit.
Place each NW into its respective frame and from the inside, draw a line
with a marker along the inside of the frame onto the paper on the NW.
You will need to have someone hold the NW from the outside or have the
NW braced...I will get to the bracing shortly. The inside paper along
the line must be cut from the window with a razor blade or sharp utility
knife. It is this part on the NW that will be glued to the frame. I
repeat, it is a slow and labor intensive job.....patience is required.
When the inside paper along the line has been cut and removed, there
will be about an inch of NW exposed......rough up this exposed glass
with sand paper.
With a good quality masking tape, tape the frames both inside and
outside...do a good job with this as it is important for cleanup. Also
have plenty of rags for cleanup and a solvent like Varsol.....if you use
Sika as the adhesive, it is black and messy.
Now you are ready to begin installing the NWs. I researched what
adhesive to use and I went with Sikaflex 295 UV and if you choose this
as well, make sure you get the Sikaflex primer.....it is expensive, but
don't, I repeat, don't do this without using the Sika primer.
Two tubes of Sika 295 will be sufficient......I had both tubes opened,
each in a caulking gun.....one tube I had the end cut to produce a
'triangle bead'.....the second tube had the normal small bead.
Take your Sika primer and apply to one frame at a time......then apply
the primer to the NW where you cut the paper from. Read the
instructions carefully and watch the time between applying the primer
and then the adhesive......I think you should wait about 10 to 20
minutes maximum.
Take the caulking gun with the triangle bead and apply liberally to the
inside of the NW.....then take the second gun and apply a bead of Sika
all along the 90 deg. angle of the frame. Use lots of adhesive.....when
you fit the NW into the frame, you want adhesive coming out all around
the window/frame.....as such, there will be lots of adhesive and
hopefully no voids between the NW and frame. I did not use spacers
between the window and frame. I know it is recommended, I actually had
the spacers but thought against it. For me, it was just another place
for problems to occur down the road. Just make sure you use lots of
adhesive to achieve at least an 1/8" thickness.
Now, that the NW is in place, you have to brace it to let the adhesive
cure. Beforehand, I went around the boatyard and collected pieces of 2"
X 4" that members were throwing away from winter covers and cut them
into 23.5" pieces......12 pieces in total.....3 for each window. Once
the window was in place, I would put 3 pieces of the wood against the
window and braced the bottom against the toerail. ON each piece of
wood, I placed a flat rock/brick about 7 to 10 lbs. each to keep the
window firmly braced.
As soon as the NW was firmly braced, remove the masking tape both inside
and outside before the adhesive cures. Once it begins to cure, it will
make removing the tape a messy challenge.
After the tape is removed, remove the paper on the inside of the NW
being careful not the get the adhesive on anything. Leave the outside
paper on until after the braces are removed. I let mine cure for two
full days before removing the wooden braces.
One window done and three more to go.
After all the wooden braces are removed, you can remove the outside
paper and do any finishing work with a razor blade or utility knife
removing any excess adhesive.
After launch in 2010, we had a big rain storm. The day after the rain,
I was sitting in the cockpit out on my mooring and 3 C&C's from the club
motored by all with their cushions on deck drying them out.....leaking
windows.
Three seasons sailing, the boat put through her paces and no leaks. Not
only that, I can now see from the inside out through clear windows and
not ones 'crazed'.
Wish I had pictures of the finished product but I didn't take any. It
was a lot of work but worth it. Materials cost about $400 in
total.....4 new windows, 2 tubes Sika, Sika primer, sandpaper.
I have a picture but it wasn't taken for the windows but you can see a
new window in it. New time I go to the boat< I will a few window pics.
Any questions, fell free to contact me.
Regards
Bob
On 2012/10/12 12:31 AM, paul waldeck wrote:
It's time I replaced the large windows in the salon of my C & C 29-2.
I've seen many posts on how to dothis.
Is Silkaflex still the bedding material of choice?
What is the window material of choice. I want clear material which
will not craze (like the current windows) and have good resistance
to UV.
Thanks in advance.
Paul Waldeck
C & C 29-2
"Second Wind"
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