Might be wise to double-nut the mounting studs. I've had them come loose on mine.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 9:53 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
Jake,Thanks, it was difficult. I tried a scissor jack but couldn't turn the handle because of interferences. So I did a lot of pushing, pulling and lifting while my wife tried to un-wedge the old and re-wedge the new. The whole time we were both a little fearful of a trip to the ER for a smashed finger. The second most difficult part was un-engineering what the PO had done to install his mounts. It is always easier when you can see the way the manufacturer intended it to be originally.The engine runs smoother now especially at low rpm. While doing the job I found the forward starboard mounting bracket on the engine to be loose. Closer inspection revealed that one of the bolts had been broken and the remaining one was loose. I attempted to extract the broken bolt but the interferences prevented a good angle. I decided that a new lock washer on the remaining bolt and increased attention was going to have to suffice for now.Much like the Vetus, the Yanmar mounts are supposed to be really good for absorbing vibrations. Hutch at PYI refered to them as "marshmallow mounts" because they are so soft and absorbing. In some applications, as they get older, they can flex so much that under heavy forward thrust a dripless shaft seal will leak. It happened to me during the sea trial of S/V Blue Pearl. We actually cancelled the sea trial because of the surveyor's concerns over the leak. Yanmar also advises that you chain or wire the mount around the middle so that there is no chance of the engine coming loose in the event that the rubber separates. I bought a Yanmar mount prior to deciding on the PYI's. It was nice to have it as a referance while doing the job. It turns out that (unlike the Vetus mounts) the PYI mounts are designed to be drop in replacements for the Yanmar ones. Same size and same stud and hole placement.So now that I have touted the PYI mounts it does seem that I have a single Yanmar mount that I have no use for. I think I paid ~$100 from torson marine. It is still in the original packaging. If someone could use it please let me know.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
On Dec 12, 2013 7:45 PM, "Jake Brodersen" <captain_j...@cox.net> wrote:Josh,Good job on the replacements. I know it couldn’t have been easy with the access you have. I used Yanmar mounts when I replaced mine. It was very simple. I have the PYI drive saver. I had to cut the prop shaft to install it. While I did the cutting on my own, I would recommend a machine shop do it because it involve recutting a keyway for the shaft collar. I used a 4 ¼” grinder to cut the keyway. Quick and effective, but far from ideal. Time constraints make you do strange things sometimes… No issues though.JakeJake Brodersen“Midnight Mistress”C&C 35 Mk-IIIHampton VaFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mountsThanks for all the thoughts and suggestions. I could have used the basketball trick and will keep that in my bag of tricks. Aside from manipulating the mounts into position (straps, jacks and lots of grunting) everything else went unremarkable. I left the aluminum rails in place but removed the polyethylene blocks (spacers) from the front. With the jack nuts all the way down the elignment came in almost perfect. I have a PYI shaft seal so there seemed to be quite a bit of "wiggle room". I did everything I could to get the shaft centered but it didn't seem to make much difference. I do plan to install a PYI shaft coupling that allows up to 1mm of misalignment, though it don't think it is anywhere close to being outside of the prescribed 0.3mm.I posted some pictures of the completed job, the original mounts, and some stock photos. The original mounts are made by Vetus and are marketed to be very good at dampening noise. Though they don't seem to be very good at resisting break down. :-/ And they are quite expensive.Lingering questions still exsist regarding torque specs and the design of the boat's foundation.Thanks again,Josh Muckley
S/V Sea HawkI replaced my original Yanmar mounts a couple years ago (probably four or five). I also use the Drive Saver from PYI. Self-aligned and no issues to date.JakeJake Brodersen“Midnight Mistress”C&C 35 Mk-IIIHampton VaFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 5:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mountsHmmm. Interesting but I have to tell you I have had regular flexible mounts and a Drive Saver flexible coupling on my boat for 15 years with no problems. Others may wish to comment.
Rich
On Dec 11, 2013, at 18:47, Don Newman <donrnew...@gmail.com> wrote:Good post Rick, but one quibble.If an engine has flexible mounts then it must have a solid not flexible coupling and vice versa.I made that mistake when I repose red my last boat and the coupling destroyed itself with extreme prejudice in a couple of hours of running. Everything was aligned but the two components worked against each other.I learned later that this is an inflexible rule ;-) sorry I can't provide a reference but my painful experience bears it out. The original had a solid mount and flexible coupling and the new engine had flexible mounts so I used the very substantial coupling.
Don NewmanC&C 44
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