Josh,

 

The driver saver is several inches thick.  That’s why I had to shorten my
prop shaft.  It uses eight bolts that all go into the central urethane
piece.  Four go to the engine output and four go to the shaft collar.  It
was easy to install, just tedious.  The alignment wasn’t too bad either.
It’s been a few years, so I should check it again.  The new engine mounts
may have settled over the years, although I don’t have a lot of vibration to
report.  I would like to install more insulation in the engine compartment.
The stuff under the cockpit sole has all deteriorated…

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 9:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

 

Jake,

The drive saver is just a thin (1/2") intermediate piece of plastic right?
Why did you have to shorten the shaft?  Nice idea using a grinder.  I would
have been scared out of my mind!

Josh

On Dec 12, 2013 7:45 PM, "Jake Brodersen" <captain_j...@cox.net> wrote:

Josh,

 

Good job on the replacements.  I know it couldn’t have been easy with the
access you have.  I used Yanmar mounts when I replaced mine.  It was very
simple.   I have the PYI drive saver.  I had to cut the prop shaft to
install it.  While I did the cutting on my own, I would recommend a machine
shop do it because it involve recutting a keyway for the shaft collar.  I
used a 4 ¼” grinder to cut the keyway.  Quick and effective, but far from
ideal.  Time constraints make you do strange things sometimes…  No issues
though.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

 

Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions.  I could have used the
basketball trick and will keep that in my bag of tricks.  Aside from
manipulating the mounts into position (straps, jacks and lots of grunting)
everything else went unremarkable.  I left the aluminum rails in place but
removed the polyethylene blocks (spacers) from the front.  With the jack
nuts all the way down the elignment came in almost perfect.  I have a PYI
shaft seal so there seemed to be quite a bit of "wiggle room".  I did
everything I could to get the shaft centered but it didn't seem to make much
difference.  I do plan to install a PYI shaft coupling that allows up to 1mm
of misalignment, though it don't think it is anywhere close to being outside
of the prescribed 0.3mm.

I posted some pictures of the completed job, the original mounts, and some
stock photos.  The original mounts are made by Vetus and are marketed to be
very good at dampening noise.  Though they don't seem to be very good at
resisting break down. :-/  And they are quite expensive.

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydTdWdDVtZlNYamM/edit

Lingering questions still exsist regarding torque specs and the design of
the boat's foundation.

Thanks again,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk

I replaced my original Yanmar mounts a couple years ago (probably four or
five).  I also use the Drive Saver from PYI.  Self-aligned and no issues to
date.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 5:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

 

Hmmm. Interesting but I have to tell you I have had regular flexible mounts
and a Drive Saver flexible coupling on my boat for 15 years with no
problems.  Others may wish to comment. 

Rich


On Dec 11, 2013, at 18:47, Don Newman <donrnew...@gmail.com> wrote:

Good post Rick, but one quibble.

If an engine has flexible mounts then it must have a solid not flexible
coupling and vice versa.

 

I made that mistake when I repose red my last boat and the coupling
destroyed itself with extreme prejudice in a couple of hours of running.
Everything was aligned but the two components worked against each other. 

 

I learned later that this is an inflexible rule ;-)  sorry I can't provide a
reference but my painful experience bears it out. The original had a solid
mount and flexible coupling and the new engine had flexible mounts so I used
the very substantial coupling.  

 


Don Newman

C&C 44

 

 


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