I like the resourceful “Brass-Hoyt” method on this repair. It sounds like the template and gasket approach will be the best for my situation. I’ll be sure to keep you both posted. Thanks again for the advice.
Rick Jorgensen From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, June 3, 2014 10:06 AM To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1 Mike and Richard Mike makes a good point that I neglected to mention. Based on my experience with the aluminum framed port lights, there is little likelihood of the leak being between the frame and the cabin side. So don't disturb the window frame unless you absolutely need to. I've had my 1975 25mk1 for 20 years this month, and my 1976 38mk1 for 11 years last month. Never had a leak around the frame - C&C built the boats well and the butyl sealant is still doing its job. The lexan/plexiglas lenses get crazed after 10-15 years in the sun. I initially tried to polish the lenses on the 25 in about 1999, discovered it to be a time consuming PITA, and ended up replacing them. Took an old lens to a glass shop that happens to repair storm doors and they used the old lens as a pattern for new ones. And since a glass shop guess a lot of polycarbonate for door repairs, new panes are pretty cheap. As someone already pointed out, you can get kits for reselling the port lights from Southshore or Holland Marine. Convenient but pricy. The EPDM seals from Lowes last longer than the foam seals used originally, and I've found I can get materials to do all 4 of the port lights on my 28 for the price of 1 kit from Southshore. Buy, hey, I'm cheap. Anyway, reselling the aluminum frame port lights is cheap and easy maintenance. Rick Brass Sent from my iPad On Jun 3, 2014, at 8:35, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Rick One thing to add to what you have been told. Check to see that the leaks are from between the aluminum frame and the window pane rather than from between the aluminum frame and the boat. I suspect this is in fact the case and if so DO NOT remove the aluminum frame as there is no need. Mike From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2014 9:06 AM To: 'Rick Brass'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1 Hi Rick, This is an absolute wealth of information that will save me time, frustration and should lead to a successful repair. She is a 1973 boat with the aluminum frame so your repair advice and detail is already invaluable. Additional information would be appreciated, but with what you have already provided makes a new C&C 30 sailor very happy. I hope someday that I can repay the favor to you or other C&C owners, but will certainly let you know of the outcome after the repair is made. Thanks, Rick Jorgensen Gloucester, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 11:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1 Richard; This is a subject that gets covered often on the list. You will find a wealth of instructions on the DIY section of the Photo Album, or in the list archives. But first, you will need to identify which version of portlights (the name for non-opening cbin windos) you have. Early boats came with an aluminum frame mounted to the cabin side, with a polycarbonate window pane mounted with a seal inside the window and a spline outside and holding the window into the frame. This version was common until the late 70s - say 79 or so. Later boats had the portlights bonded to the outside of the cabin sides with a material called Plexus. I have the aluminum frames on both of my boats. New lenses can be nade by any glass shop that repairs storm doors - the 1/4" smoked gray panes for my boats cost about $10 each. The inner seal can be bought at LOWES, a 20-25 foot roll of EPDM seal costs about $15 or so. I have part of a roll left over but it is in the storage shed. Someone on the list can give you a part number to purchase. The outer spline can be gotten from the glas shop, or bought on Ebay pretty cheaply. IIRC I paid about 40 cents a foot for the last I bought. If you have the glued in windows, several listers have alternate suggestions for gluingnew panes to the cabin top. Keep in mind that the portlight becomes part of the structure of the boat and is subject to a lot of flexing and high loads, so you want to do the repair with that in mind. If you tell us which style of portlight you have, we can provide more information to you. Rick Brass Washington, NC. -----Original Message----- From: Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List Sent: Jun 2, 2014 10:25 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1 Both cabin windows on my C&C30 are leaking and need replacement. Does anyone have any experience, advice or suggestions? Thanks, Rick Jorgensen _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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