Hi Mike
It is very do-able. Do you have the engine heating a hot water tank?
Same process essentially. Hot water/glycol comes out of the engine, run
it thru a Y valve. If set one way the flow is through the heat
exchanger as usual, but if set the other way the hot stuff goes to a
heater in the cabin and then into the heat exchanger on the engine. You
would need:
1) radiator, such as this one
<http://www.go2marine.com/product/387669F/marine-heater-heater-craft-200-sport-kit-with-two-3-vents.html>
2) enough hose to connect it all up.
3) a Y valve to select cabin heat or no cabin heat.
4) a T (for the return)
I've got a hydronic heating system on my boat with two radiators, my
espar heats these and the water tank - but the idea is the same. I
couldn't go the engine heated route because mine is a 3GM = raw water
cooled.
If you would like to have a look at my setup we can arrange it.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2014-12-03 11:12 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
Mike;
Josh is correct in saying the “F” in the model number of older Yanmar
engines designated freshwater cooled, and the use of a heat exchanger
on the engine. On a freshwater cooled engine the water/glycol coolant
mix in the block is circulated through a heat exchanger – which is
analogous to the radiator in your car. Raw water, drawn from outside
of the boat, is circulated through the heat exchanger and removes the
heat from the water/glycol coolant before being used to cool the
exhaust gasses and being discharged overboard. In your car, the
relatively cold air passing through the radiator takes the heat away
from the water/glycol coolant in the engine.
If there is no “F” in the model number of an older Yanmar, it is a raw
water cooled engine. Seawater is drawn from outside, pumped through
the engine to cool it, then mixed with the exhaust to cool that, and
then discharged overboard.
Now I said “older” Yanmar engines because every model in their current
product line seems to come with a heat exchanger and fresh water cooling.
In response to another comment made about the “GM”, “HM”, “QM” model
designation (the current engines are “YM”) that is a model series
designation. It almost looks like it relates to the generation of
emission controls present on the engine. I notice that the YM series
is designed to meet the diesel emission standards that started to
become effective in 2011 in the US.
So “2” or “3” is the number of cylinders. “GM” etc. is the engine
series. “30” is the nominal horsepower. And “F” is freshwater cooled.
(On the 4 cylinder engines “TE” is turbocharged, and “ETE” is
intercooled and turbocharged.)
Your idea about having an engine powered heater for the boat is an
interesting one. It would be relatively easy to tap the hot
water/glycol cooling system (we do it all the time now for installing
a water heater on the boat) and route some of the coolant through a
radiator inside the cabin (analogous to the heater core in your car).
An electric fan could provide air circulation. And you would want to
come up with some sort of thermostatically controlled valve to
throttle the flow of hot water to match the heating needs inside the
cabin. Pretty doable, but the devil would be in the details.
Rick Brass
*Imzadi *C&C 38 mk 2
*la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
*Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
*Sent:* Wednesday, December 03, 2014 8:29 AM
*To:* Josh Muckley; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List LF38 engine access - how bad is it really?
Josh
I am guessing heat exchanger that you refer to does not mean the same
as in everyday life where it can be used as a heater for the boat with
some reworking. Am I incorrect? I have 3GM30F and some days it is
miserably cold while underway and the option of an onboard engine
driven heater might be nice
Also. I think your landfall38s likely have tons more access than our
frers 33 with an oversized engine. Maybe Rich and I will have to
compare next summer
Mike
Persistence
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