the raw water cooled engine can be modified to use coolant in the engine and an 
external exchanger.  Mine is setup that way from the factory (at least looks 
that way).

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 12/3/14, Graham Collins via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List boat heating - was LF38 engine access - how bad is it   
really?
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
 Date: Wednesday, December 3, 2014, 3:13 PM
 
 
     Hi Mike
 
       It is very do-able.  Do you have the engine heating a
 hot water
       tank?  Same process essentially.  Hot water/glycol
 comes out of
       the engine, run it thru a Y valve.  If set one way
 the flow is
       through the heat exchanger as usual, but if set the
 other way the
       hot stuff goes to a heater in the cabin and then into
 the heat
       exchanger on the engine.  You would need:
 
       1) radiator, such
         as this one
 
       2) enough hose to connect it all up.
 
       3) a Y valve to select cabin heat or no cabin heat.
 
       4) a T (for the return)
 
       
 
       I've got a hydronic heating system on my boat with
 two radiators,
       my espar heats these and the water tank - but the idea
 is the
       same.  I couldn't go the engine heated route
 because mine is a 3GM
       = raw water cooled.
 
       
 
       If you would like to have a look at my setup we can
 arrange it.
 
       
 
       Graham Collins
 Secret Plans
 C&C 35-III #11
       On 2014-12-03 11:12 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List
 wrote:
 
     
     
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         Mike; 
            
         Josh
             is correct in saying the “F” in the model
 number of older
             Yanmar engines designated freshwater cooled, and
 the use of
             a heat exchanger on the engine. On a freshwater
 cooled
             engine the water/glycol coolant mix in the block
 is
             circulated through a heat exchanger – which is
 analogous to
             the radiator in your car. Raw water, drawn from
 outside of
             the boat, is circulated through the heat
 exchanger and
             removes the heat from the water/glycol coolant
 before being
             used to cool the exhaust gasses and being
 discharged
             overboard. In your car, the relatively cold air
 passing
             through the radiator takes the heat away from
 the
             water/glycol coolant in the engine. 
            
         If
             there is no “F” in the model number of an
 older Yanmar, it
             is a raw water cooled engine. Seawater is drawn
 from
             outside, pumped through the engine to cool it,
 then mixed
             with the exhaust to cool that, and then
 discharged
             overboard. 
            
         Now
             I said “older” Yanmar engines because every
 model in their
             current product line seems to come with a heat
 exchanger and
             fresh water cooling. 
            
         In
             response to another comment made about the
 “GM”, “HM”, “QM”
             model designation (the current engines are
 “YM”) that is a
             model series designation. It almost looks like
 it relates to
             the generation of emission controls present on
 the engine. I
             notice that the YM series is designed to meet
 the diesel
             emission standards that started to become
 effective in 2011
             in the US. 
            
         So
             “2” or “3” is the number of cylinders.
 “GM” etc. is the
             engine series. “30” is the nominal
 horsepower. And “F” is
             freshwater cooled. (On the 4 cylinder engines
 “TE” is
             turbocharged, and “ETE” is intercooled and
 turbocharged.) 
            
         Your
             idea about having an engine powered heater for
 the boat is
             an interesting one. It would be relatively easy
 to tap the
             hot water/glycol cooling system (we do it all
 the time now
             for installing a water heater on the boat) and
 route some of
             the coolant through a radiator inside the cabin
 (analogous
             to the heater core in your car). An electric fan
 could
             provide air circulation. And you would want to
 come up with
             some sort of thermostatically controlled valve
 to throttle
             the flow of hot water to match the heating needs
 inside the
             cabin. Pretty doable, but the devil would be in
 the details. 
            
            
         Rick
             Brass 
         Imzadi 
             C&C
             38 mk 2 
         la Belle Aurore C&C
             25 mk1 
         Washington,
             NC 
            
            
            
         
           
             From:
                 CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On
                   Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
 
                 Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2014
 8:29 AM
 
                 To: Josh Muckley; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
                 Subject: Re: Stus-List LF38 engine
 access - how
                 bad is it really? 
           
         
            
         Josh 
            
         I
             am guessing heat exchanger that you refer to
 does not mean
             the same as in everyday life where it can be
 used as a
             heater for the boat with some reworking.  Am I
 incorrect?  I
             have 3GM30F and some days it is miserably cold
 while
             underway and the option of an onboard engine
 driven heater
             might be nice 
            
         Also. 
             I think your landfall38s likely have tons more
 access than
             our frers 33 with an oversized engine.  Maybe
 Rich and I
             will have to compare next summer 
            
         Mike 
         Persistence 
            
         
 
       
     
     
 
   
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