In 2009, we replaced our side cabin windows.....used Sika 295 UV and
Sika Primer......never heard of 'Sika UV Shielding Tape'. When you
apply the Sika Primer to the new windows and the gelcoat, you should
understand why it is highly recommended......it 'bites' into surfaces
you apply it to. I used a 1/2" painter's brush to apply the Primer and
you could feel the 'resistance' as you dragged it along the surface(s).
I taped everything, inside and outside, and applied 'more' rather than
'less' Sika 295UV so that when the windows were fitted into their slots,
there was adhesive oozing out all around.....especially onthe outside.
And I never used 'spacers'.....I bought them but decided at the last
moment not to use them.....I felt they might be a weak point. I let the
Sika cure for 3 days before I disturbed anything......the extra adhesive
that oozed out was easily trimmed off with a razor blade.
One tip.......as soon as you install a window and have it secured in
place, remove the tape before the Sika cures. If the adhesive cures
before you remove the tape, you will make the job much more difficult.
As for gaskets, I replaced all of my hatch gaskets.....obtained them
from Hammerhead....the guy there used to work for A&H.....very
knowledgeable......I talked to him on the phone....I said I needed 3/4"
D-shaped gaskets......he said I needed 1/2" D-shaped gaskets.....he was
right, 1/2" was the perfect size and he sent me a tube of caulking I
didn't ask for but was grateful for getting.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-02-26 9:00 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:
I use the Sika primer, as it is “highly recommended” to ensure a good
seal. Yes, it’s expensive, but I hate doing a job twice. A bottle of
primer goes a long way. Sika recommends that the edges of the window
be painted over where the sealant is used. This is because exposure
to light degrades the adhesive. I’m assuming this would be UV
exposure. To date, I have not done this and have had zero problems.
It could cause premature failure of the seal in the long term though.
I use a dremel tool with a sanding drum to rough up the edges of the
windows before installing them. I give the material some tooth, then
wipe it down with alcohol to remove any contamination. Don’t be
afraid to grind into the plexi to get a good surface for the
adhesive. It won’t show from the outside.
Jake
*Jake Brodersen*
*/“Midnight Mistress”/*
*C&C 35 Mk-III*
*Hampton VA*
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
*prf680 via CnC-List
*Sent:* Thursday, February 26, 2015 1:51 AM
*To:* 1 CnC List
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 C&C30 MK1
I have no idea what hardness neoprene one would use ... and best
adhesive to fix it in place.
Atkins & Hoyle website says 'high density, soft durometer'
I suppose one of us should get off their duffs and call A&H or Hammerhead.
On another note, I notice that the Sika 295UV instructions call for
'Sika UV Shielding Tape' overlapping the edge of the window and the
adhesive joint itself, onto the cabinside? Has anyone actually seen
that or used it themselves? I couldn't find any reference to
availability in North America either ... even absent from Sika's
Canadian website.
I also don't see reference on many of the 'how-to' sites to abrading
the edges of the acrylic sheet and the fiberglass frame area prior to
install. More discuss use of primer ... but not all state what they
are using.
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